Weld? Bit of threaded rod or a bolt with the head hacksawed off. The ID of the tube is about 4mm so M4 rod / bolt should do.If it’s a bit loose, some fine wire or solder wrapped around will do. Too tight, ream it with a drill or file. You can always use a few spots of superglue to hold everything in place as there will be plenty of metal to metal contact.
In fact you’ll probably not even notice if the reflector is a bit short. Sure, maybe the gain or pattern is a fraction of a dB off but so what.
I used the 6mm X 1m aluminium tubes from the original design. Rather than using small connecting leads I managed to attach s couple of piggy back spade connectors directly to the end of the element and connect the coax directly. I’ve not properly measured the SWR yet and will get a few photos of the actual connections when I get back home.
Arrow antennas can be handheld or attached. You can get information like weight from the page with all the instructions. For example, the 4 element 2 m Yagi weighs 20 oz.
Antenna ranges for gain measurements are expensive to rent or build. I guess he could calculate the gain, but that would be theoretical. You don’t trust antennas without gain figures, I don’t trust published gain figures.
I used the blue spades but drilled the hole bigger and snapped the blue section off this picture then used some screws I had lying around which fitted directly into the centre of the poles. I then bent the connector slightly so I could attach the coax.
Had a good few hours sorting this out , 6mm tube and even sodnt a few hours on the lathe making some locking collars as choc blocks dont fit over 6mm tube that can find .
Only thing the driven element stop colars are quite close and if it span the screws will hit each other , some heatshrink or tape over should work … now i could use banana plugs in the tube ends or ring conectors under the screw heads …
Banana plugs would be nice and quick to connect, but if the wire comes out of the end of the plug, it will have to curl round to the coax - like a half turn coil, which is not ideal.
Maybe if you just used the banana plug pin, and soldered the wire to it so that it comes away at 90 degrees…?
Cheers , thought il put a bit of effort in this time , yes im going to solder banana plugs on but on centre with expossed dilectric keep that part as short as can due to radiating with no screen.
As you can see i cant make the overlap much shorter .
As “wunder” shared they can be hand held or mounted.
They work fine in my opinion but my biggest issue is that while the elements are light (made of arrows?), the main shaft is unnecessarily heavy and bulky.
It all works fine . Went out yesterday after tea time . Sadly no contacts on ssb but on fm had a few good contacts . Swindon to farnborough, wasnt really high around 800ft asl .
Not that I’m very experienced with 2m Yagi activations, but the problem you’re having was exactly what lead me to using a tripod. Works great in the horizontal plane and either way dead easy to rotate.
I attach a piece of velcro tightly to the mast where the guying ring should be. The ring then settles on the velcro strip (red). This gives a bit more flexibility.
The other point is to fix the lines as far from the pole as possible to keep the angle low an don’t strain them too hard. However, looks good in your pic.
