Can’t get the link to display properly but saw this:- Chinese and only $40 approximately.
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Have seen them on ebay but I don’t know of anyone buying or using one. Might be better than the larger version I have had for a few years. But only due to being smaller. Would still need to have the mass to prevent sideways slippage when you slap the paddles…
Andrew VK1DA/VK2UH
Hi Andrew,
I bought something that looks very much like this but it uses steel wires (thin pins) in plastic bearings - the same plastic as the rest of the box. Ugh. Inside the build quality is commensurate with a low price.
I now use a bigger and heavier brass two paddle key with a steel ball bearing.
The only problem during activations that I have had was when a small bug crawled into the dash contacts and I lost my dash(es) until the crushed body was removed. I am wondering if I need a snug cover.
73
Ron
VK3AFW
Hi Ron
No, you don,t need a cover, just a bug key!!
Kind regards
Dave
3 Likes
I have used this one for 2 years now.
I have been using this and clipping to my writing board. It also comes with a set of loop and hooks.
Kent K9EZ
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Well that’s a “bugger”, were your hopes for an incident free activation “dashed”?!?!?!
Sorry, that’s the level I’m working at today. I’m afraid that my jokes don’t get any better than that!!!
Somebody would have probably piped up and said it if I didn’t and I’m sure some that at least a few people were thinking it!
I’ll get my coat!!!
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I ordered a Te-Ne-Ke, put an old bicycle strap helmet and clips on it and strap it to my knee. Works really well: http://w8cso.org/index.php?page=teneke
I bought one of these … Cheap!
https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F264234769459
Do you know what type of plastic they printed that with? I made a 3D printed paddle with PLA plastic, and it worked great…until I left it in my car. Then I had a puddle of plastic. If it’s ABS you’re good, but PLA has a low melting point.
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No idea on the plastic used. I will avoid hot places!
I used one of these keys for a while until I built my force sensor keyer. It worked pretty well but I made a couple modifications and it now is very smooth.
Or you can get the more colorful versions here.
I do not know what kind of plastic it is but you can email him and find out.
73’s
Tim - K5DEZ
2 Likes
I have been using a Whiterook MK 65. Lovely little key with tick built in. Shame they won’t ship to the UK anymore. Would like another without the tick.
“I have been using a Whiterook MK 65. Lovely little key with tick built in. Shame they won’t ship to the UK anymore. Would like another without the tick.”
…so you just want the single lever basic key? I’d order one sent here if you like and then send it on to you but I don’t know the shipping from Canada to you.
Also using the teneke, works beautifully and supports a ham radio club in the process. Cheaper than half of the Chinese junk anyway.
I recently got a 3D printer, and I’ve made a few of these:
Love this design. Easy to make and has a really great feel. Uses small bearings and magnets provide the return force. Highly recommended.
Here is the first one I made, that has been a few SOTA activations so far:
I made one for a SOTA friend, and he really likes it. Here is the body of one that I just printed to experiment with text on the sides… came out pretty good!
It is PLA, so I guess it could melt but it doesn’t really get that hot here =) Also I can just print another one!
I may experiment with PETG next.
3 Likes