My Activating all of Northumberland by Bicycle ticked-off all of Northumberland, leaving just Siighty Crag (G/SB-005) remaining in G/SB. Sighty Crag was also my final hill in Cumbria, and the last remaining English hill north of Lancaster, so it had been on my mind since last year.
I had planned to start my route from Hadrian’s wall, and walk to Bewcastle before wandering over the Bewcastle fells, with the route continuing in the Scottish Borders and finishing at Teviot Head. Storm Dave, over the Easter weekend, meant that my plans did not look viable, so I took a an easier option of starting at Bewcastle to make a slightly shorter walk.
I’m not sure Bewcastle even qualifies as a hamlet, seemingly comprised of a farmhouse and ruined castle, but it is picturesque. I started on Easter Tuesday, setting off at 0945 BST. The walk started with about a kilometer uphill along a road to Crossgreans, where I turned eastwards along a track that gradually climbed into the Bewcastle fells.
Bewcastle
The weather was clear blue sky, warm sunshine and a gentle breeze. As the track climbed slowly along its route into the hills, I could look south towards the lake district and north Pennines, with the outline of Cross Fell (G/NP-001) clearly visible.
At a junction of fence-lines, at NY591769 I left the track and jumped out into the open fell. This area is not a popular walking destination, and there were no clear tracks. Indeed, the quietness of the area was one of the key advantages over staying in my home hills of the lake district during an Easter week. Turning North, I chose the west side of the fence-line, and picked up an animal track over the tussocky ground.
Lots of tussocks, looking south towards the Lake District
The ground continued to rise, as a I followed the fence-line, pausing to take water from an un-named stream. Another fence-junction was met at NY586780 where I turned eastwards briefly, before again turning north and passing the east side of a trig-point summit called Long Crag. Here I was delighted to gain some relief from the rough terrain in the form of a what looks like paving slabs. For a short stretch, the bedrock formed a perfect path running in a generally eastwards direction from Long Crag. All too soon, the pavement disappeared into the bog and I followed animal tracks onto Black Stantling where I regained the fence-line for another kilometer of walking to Sighty Crag. It was now about 1300hrs BST.
An all too short section of bedrock paving
The crag was a wonderful spot, that would have made a great camping location. The rocks of the crag formed a variety of sculptures, including an almost-cave that would have been just big enough to sleep in.
I was carrying several radios with me: a Yaesu FT70D (for 2m FM and C4FM), a Quansheng UVK5 (for 2m CW) and a QMX with EFHW (for 40, 30 and 15m) CW.
The FT70D was connected to an RH770 antenna, and I called out on 2m FM. GM4BML/P quickly called-in from Goat Fell (GM/SI-006) on Isle of Arran, which was a delightful S2S to start the activation with. This was followed by G4WHA/A and G1ZJQ/P. My fourth contact was then GM4KNU/P on GM/CS-020, north of Pitlochry - a fantastic distance. The contacts then dried-up, so I had a spot of lunch before trying 2m CW, but with no luck.
Since I was behind schedule I opted not to try HF, and instead set off across the moorland. My intended route was fairly ambitious, I wanted to stick to the crest of the hills and trace out a route following the Cumbria/Northumberland border to Glendhu Hill, a distance of around 8km. From Glendhu I planned to head North East and eventually drop into the forest to pick up a forest track that would take me to the next hill - Larriston Fell. I knew this was ambitious, and I had a back-up plan of dropping into the forest sooner, and following forest tracks.
Acitivating Slighty Crag
Good enough to sleep in?
From Slighty Crag I headed north west directly to Burnt Tom Crags, clambering over peat hags and wishing I had stuck to the fence-line instead of trying for a shortcut! At Burnt Tom Crag I rejoined the fence-line and followed a very faint animal track norh-westwards along the fenceline, climbing Black Know. The ground underfoot was boggy tussocks and heather. An interesting rock formation lay about a km southwest, marked as Christianbury Crags, and I headed across to explore.
The OS 25k map shows a footpath heading out of the forest up to this point, and despite it going in almost the opposite direction to my intended route, it might have been the quickest choice for me. However, after exploring the crag, I retraced my steps for half a km north-east before setting off to Beckhead crag.
It was clear that I would not be enjoying the 6m walk to Glendhu Hill. The ground underfoot consisted of waist deep heather with deep ruts and bog. The ruts, hidden by the heather, acted as deep man traps every few steps. The effort to make even the slowest progress was immense.
I switched my route to the back-up plan, but even that turned out to be huge effort. I dragged myself across the moorland, 10m at time, to meet the forest line below Beckhead crag. There I turned northwest to head towards the end of a forest track that my 25k OS map promised. These last few hundred metres were purgatory, crossing two streams deep grooved into the peat, falling into heather man-traps and, at the end, climbing over a couple of huge fallen trees to find the forest track. When I reached the track I dropped my pack and lay down on the gravel. It was now 1600 hrs, and somehow the afternoon had been eaten away by those last few kilometers.
it doesn’t look that bad on the photo, but this moorland was awful. This is the view towards Beckhead Crag from near Christianbury Crag. Glenghu Hill forms the horizon in the centre of the image
I followed the forest track northwards, before following a long twisty-turning series of junctions to reach the Kershope burn. I enjoyed this part of the walk much more than expected. This area of the forest appears to have not been very active in terms of forest operations, and the tracks were mossy and overgrown. There was plenty of wildlife, and of course I was making decent progress. I followed on the English side of the Kershope burn for a little while, passing below the bothy of Kershopehead, before crossing the stream at arocky section, into Scotland. The forest track continued along the stream to Scotch Knowe where it turns off into back into Northumberland.
Mossy tracks in the Kershope Forest
Crossing the Kershope burn into Scotland
It was now 1900 hrs, and so I continued along the stream for a short section, leaving the track, and found a lovely grassy spot on the river bank to camp. With my tent quickly pitched, and a ready supply of water from the stream, it was a most wonderful place to camp.
The last few camping trips have mostly been on Lakeland summits over the winter, in often quite foul weather. This spot next to the stream, in a sheltered forest on an unusually warm and sunny April evening felt really quite odd having recently got used to cold, wind and rain while camping!
I spent some time poring over my map and deciding whether to take a long but easy route over forest tracks, to get to Larriston Fell, or whether to continue following the stream (now called Clark’s sike) which would take me though pathless forest and moorland onto the Larriston fell. The stream route saved me around 5km, which I decided would not be worth the extra energy the rough terrain would cost. Still, it would be a very interesting route to try.
Pleasant camping next to a woodland stream
Over-reacting signs for a slightly damaged bridge over a trickle of water
Wednesday morning soon came around, and it was bright and sunny. I was back on the trail by 0800hrs, walking along the forest track. At first the trail was a simple single-track footpath but it soon widened into a well used forest track. Here I found an extensive tree harvesting operation underway on the north slope of Glendhu fell – which would have made yesterday’s intended route even more problematic.
Bloody Bush
After about 90 mins of walking I eventually reached the border with Scotland at Bloody bush. The England–Scotland border has a long history of conflict and control, and places like the Bloody Bush reflect that. The name comes from a reported skirmish that took place there; this area was once far from peaceful. Indeed, this area would have been quite lawless several hundred years ago, and this is evidenced by strongholds such as The Hermitage that I would visit later in the day. For centuries, the borderlands were known for raids and disputes, with families on both sides crossing back and forth.
The toll pillar on this historic road was used to show where one authority ended and another began, and to collect tolls from travellers and traders. The toll pillar at this location reads:
THE MARCH BETWEEN NORTHUMBERLAND AND ROXBURGHSHIRE Willowbog, the Property of Sir J.E. Swinburn Bart. Capheaton Dinlabyre, the Property of William Oliver Rutherford, Esqr. *
**Private Road upon which a Toll Gate is erected near Oakenshaw Bridge at which the following Toll rates are exacted, viz.:
*- 1st For horses employed in leading coals - 2d. each *
- 2nd All other horses - 3d.
- 3rd Cattle - 1d.
*- 4th Sheep, Calves, Swine - 1/2d. *
*The above tolls exacted once a day. N.B.-Persons evading or refusing to pay at the above mentioned toll gate will be prosecuted for trespass. *
*DISTANCES FROM THIS PLACE BLOODY BUSH To *
*Lewisburn Colliery - 5 miles *
*Mounces - 8 *
*Bellingham - 23 *
*Hexham - 37 *
*Dinlabyre - 31/2 *
*Castleton - 71/2 *
*Hawick - 21 *
Jedburgh - 25
Once past Bloody Bush, I turned off the track, past a mobile phone mast at onto the heather clad summit of Larriston Fell (GM/SS-161). the OS 50k map shows a track to the summit (but not on the 25k map). Sad to say, the 25k was correct, and it was mostly a hack through heather with some animal trails and a weak quadbike track for a short distance.
Activating Larriston Fell
Last activated four years ago, in February 2022 by GM4VFL, this is not a popular hill! My call on 2m FM yielded two contacts with 2E0MIX and G3WHA, so I switched over to HF using my QMX and an EFHW, it was now about 1100 BST. I strapped my pole to the trig point and soon got the antenna lofted. Conditions on HF seemed poor, and I only managed two contacts on 40m, one was a S2S with HB9BIn on HB/LU-013 (Wachthubel, SE of Bern) and the second with HB9DIZ.
With the summit activated I re-packed my back and headed back to towards the 'phone mast before started the steady walk down a substantial forest track. The sun was now really quite warm, this being a remarkably hot day for April. There were no streams crossing the path and so I was starting to get quite thirsty. Near the base of the hill I passed the lovely homestead of Mountain View where the owner kindly invited me inside to refill on water. It was a wonderful to drink some clear water, rather than the yellow peaty stuff I had been consuming for the past day.
Fully refreshed, I rejoined the track for a short distance to meet the B6357 at Dinlabyre Bridge. It was now early afternoon, and I decided I would have to abandon my intent of activating the 1pt hill that sits in this valley (GM/SS-199, Blackwood Hill) if I was to meet my goal of activating Greatmoor Hill and Cauldcleuch Head before reaching Teviothead by tomorrow morning. In any case, Greatmoor Hill looks like a good option to cycling up this valley, and tick-off later in the year.
So I followed the road (passing the village of Steel Road) for a couple of easy kilometers to reach Hermitage castle. Hermitage Castle is a large ruined fortress. It was built in the 13th century, by the de Soulis family. The castle’s design is unusual, and it has a remarkable appearance against the backdrop of the Liddesdale hills, The castle has a massive, compact structure with very thick walls and limited decoration, reflecting its purpose as a defensive stronghold in a frequently contested region. The front features a huge gate archway, while to the rear there is a ruined chapel.
Hermitage Castle
During the late medieval period, Hermitage Castle played an important role in controlling the borderlands. The castle is also linked to Mary, Queen of Scots, who famously rode there in 1566 to visit the Earl of Bothwell after he was injured.
Shortly after the Castle, at the hamlet of Braidlie I turned off north heading up a track. This is now sheep farming country, which I hoped would mean easier walking. As I headed up the velvet green slopes of Tongue Rig, it felt lovely to be back on easier walking ground, although the pasture soon gave way to heather moorland until i reached the summit ridge, where shee grazing started again.
Delighlted to find some sort of path, looking back down Greatmoor Hille
Following a clear path to the summit, I found the trig point of Greatmoor Hill (GM/SS-114) neatly surrounded by a stone shelter, I was particularly pleased to find the trig point centre hole was open, providing the perfect support for my pole, This proved particularly helpful as 2m FM yielded no calls. It was 1800hrs on a sunny Wednesday evening, so that was perhaps to be expected.
View from Greatmoor Hill
Activating Greatmoor Hill
I setup my EFHW and called on 40m with first to call being GL2COm and IM0RWX, I then heard M0MKU calling on 2m FM so had a quick chat, please to make at least one QSO on 2m. Back on 40m I made a few more QSO while admiring the view. On such a clear day, I flet like I sould see all the way to Edinburgh and the North Sea. The Eildon Hills were clearly visible, along with the surrounding small towns. This was a lovely place to sit after a long day walking.
I packed away my radio gear and started heading westwards, with Cauldleuch Head straight ahead. Given this is a fairly major summit for the area I was hoping for some sort of track to be present. I was pleased to find a quadbike or similar had flattened the tussocks, making for relatively easy walking.
When I reached the col beneath Cauldcleuch Head I dopped down about 30m further to find some water. It was tempting to camp atop the summit, since the col was only about 160m below the summit, but I just didn’t feel like lugging water up. In addition, the col had some areas where i could pitch a tent, whereas the summit was likely to be peat bog.
I pitched the tent on tussocky grass, spending the last of my energy in jumping up and down around the area to try and flatten things out a bit. The tent was pitched by about 1900hrs, and I was soon cooking a meal and relaxing. The OS 25k map names this col “windy swire”, but the forest for the next 12 hours was maximum gusts of 20mph, so I would be absolutely fine. Nevertheless, rain was due to set in from 0800 hrs on Thursday, with the wind picking up, so I decided on a 0700hrs start for Thursday, to give me time to setup for HF CW before the rain started.
Misty morning on Windy Swire
I was on the move by 0655 hrs, and the climb to the summit was shorter and easier than expected. The summit is marked by a fence junction, and nothing more. Gone was the sunshine of the last few days, leaving only a mist with around 50 to 100m of visibility.
A quick call on 2m FM yielded no calls, so I switched too HF. My pole was strapped to fencepost with the EFHW running above the fence. First to was G3VQO at 0742 BST, followed by ON7ZM, DL6WT and a S2S with LA9XGA/P. There followed a good number of calls on 40m before I closed at 0800 BST.
Activating Cauldcleuch Head
Just as I finished packing away, the forecast rain started, and I was pleased to be on the move. I followed the fenceline, first north, and then veering around to the south west onto Langtae hill, all the time pleased that a faint track was present. At a fence junction on Millstone edge I turned south briefly, counting my steps to measure the distance before heading due west along a compass bearing.
It was an act of reliance on my navigation as I headed into the pathless moorland, in the thick mist, down a steepening slope. I was aiming for a sheepfold on a patch of land called Jenny’s Tongue, where I hoped to join a farm track. After dropping about 100m the mist started to clear, and I could see the sheep pastures below. I stopped at the sheepfold to take some breakfast before crossing Duncan’s Grain (lovely clear, fresh tasting water…I actually took a 500ml bottle home with me as a present for the XYL, but she was not keen on the idea).
Breakfast at the sheepfold
The farm track ran for a couple of kilometers through interlocking spurs of hills, following Linhope burn to meet the A7, where I turned south to Mosspaul. It was just about 1000hr when I joined the road, and the bus south to Carlisle was due at 1122hrs from Mosspaul. I was looking forward to getting a suasage sandwich and a tea from the Mosspaul Inn, but when I arrived I realised it was long ago closed. I should have known, as I have cycled along the A7 many times, but just never paid any attention. Even worse, there was no bus shelter on the layby on the A7, so I spent an hour huddled under my groundsheet, trying to protect myself from the rain and wind. When the bus did eventually turn up, it felt wonderful to be inside!
Not a great place to wait for a bus
in being G3VQQ followed by ON7ZM, DL6WT and LA8XGA