Well, finally, after a few months of toil (essentially, trying to find specific parts that would work, it was a nightmare), I finally finished the restoration tonight.
This is, to the best of my knowledge, a BPO/GPO Telegraph Key. Made in Manchester circa 1920.
I don’t think the person giving it away knew what they had. I love CW (even though I am only new and learning) and I didn’t want to see this get put in a landfill.
The hardest parts were the spring and the screw with the hole in it (you wouldn’t believe where I found one). They took an age to find. I might get a bigger knurled screw too as it is a bit small. It’ll do for now.
It sits tensioned REALLY nicely now and keys like a dream. It will get to do the job it was made for again after all these years (just with a crap operator this time!).
As it should do!
The only part that is unfinished is the knob which is a 3D printed J38. It took a chip out the top, not sure how. So I need to print another, or find an original knob somewhere. It will do for now.
I am pleased I managed to rescue this key and am proud to have it in my mini collection with my Lancaster Bathtub, VK3IL and Palm Pico Green.
Just thought to show folks here as it might be of interest. I will post a full restoration piece on my blog at some point.
Thanks all. I learned a lot restoring it. Particularly about restoring brass that is totally shot to bits.
I am keeping a look out for suitable knobs. Also I need a longer grub screw as the one I have is too short. I found a pack in Lidl for about €2 in the Summer.
I have some plain white candles and a melter so when it is all 100% i will drip fill the base troughs just like it was done originally. I had to scrape all the original wax out to get to the wiring and the screws to fully dismantle the entire key, even the pivot bar.
Finding the right size and type of spring was a pain, the tensioner screw was without a doubt a proper challenge to find, so I bought a few packs in different sizes for any future restorations.
With the tensioner in place it doesn’t ‘clack’ as much either. The FT-290R sidetone just makes it a joy to use.
If the weather behaves I might try some 2m CW and see can I get over to Scotland or Wales. HF looks like a write off according to Dr. Tamitha Skov’s space weather forecast, so 270 should be the focus this weekend.
I have a small hope to get out on Sunday to test my new 857. Perhaps on Little Sugar Loaf or down to Arklow Glentigue. Will definitely try 2m CW on a straight key
They “almost” resurrected that design in World War II with the 10F/4067 practice buzzer: Buzzer Practice Ref.No. 10F/4067 There seem to be lots of them around, if you need to scab any more parts. I dust mine off every so often, and use it just as a key (No way I’m using that arcy-sparky buzzer in my shack!). You’re right - it does have a nice, solid feel, though I still prefer my “Bad Czech”.
I can’t get out Sunday but will put a general Ham Alert spot up at some point today. Probably between 12 and 1pm. Likely around the point I chased you when you were in Mourne for 433 Alive and more recently for 145 Alive where I got a QSO with Andy.
I can’t seem to get either the FL-2010 or MML 144/25 to work at the minute, no idea why I’ve done nothing different to them. So I’ll try the FT-290R on high power, which I think is about 3 Watts, and have the Quannie as backup.
7m mast with Slim G and the RH-770 as backup. Might try the 70cm Moxon as well. Looks a bit damp out so likely the Bathtub key today. I’ll call CQ for a bit, then try phone. See what occurs!
I’ll try listen for you tomorrow, but if you are Glendalough way I likely won’t have line of sight. Possibly on Little Sugar Loaf, I’ve got QSO’s with my cake tin and Bingfu mag mount on the window sill before. Even better chance if you pay a visit to the old girl next door and activate, what a 2m CW QSO that would be! Best of luck.
Nice! They do look similar. I will keep that info in my back pocket so. Thank you for that!
There are 3 ways PAs get switched to TX with a 290.
RF Vox. Detects RF output from 290 and uses it to switch PA to TX. Normally has a switch for SSB/FM to alter the hang time so you don’t get too much relay chatter on speach pauses. Sometimes switch changes PA bias.
PTT input line. Typical a line is grounded to switch the PA into TX. Use a PTT output on the rig to drive the PA. Check PA doesn’t sink lots of current and fry rig’s PTT circuit.
x90 Mk1 series radios put +6V on the antenna when in TX. Many transverters / PAs can detect this voltage and use it to switch.
The FL-2010 uses the +ve voltage to switch. If it isn’t then check your 290 in CW mode, if you PTT the mic there is no RF out and you can measure the voltage. Then check the patch lead is not open circuit. It can be o/c yet have sufficient capacitance to couple the RF without much loss but the +ve voltage will be lost.
The MML 144/25 can be PTT’d by grounding pin 1 on the 5 in DIN connector. It also has RF vox.
If neither work it points to no RF out, no +ve out. Broken patch lead most likely.
Cheers Andy, I will look in to that and see what’s the matter. I did wonder had I somehow caused an issue with both amps, so I took out the fuses in both power cables and checked them to see if they were blown visually and with a DMM. All seems well.
It is just so odd. The MML was working 100% with a PSU. It doesn’t now. I’ve done nothing different at all so am at a loss to what I mightve done. Plus the FL-2010 not working at all when I just had it sent away for a look over is just weird too.
I wish I had the DC plug for the FL-2010 to confirm. The MML 144/25 is only 12v battery powered afaik.
I’ll keep checking so. Would’ve loved 25w for today.
Looking at the schematic, there is no on / off switch. So, if power is connected, the LED should light up - if it doesn’t, then the internal fuse is suspect….
This is exactly what is happening. No LED’s at all. I’ll open it up and see. The manual says it should have an internal 5A fuse, hopefully a glass or ceramic one. I can at least visually see if it has filled its pants.
Will put that on the todo list. It is odd both amps are not working. So odd.
I’m not anywhere near skilled enough to delve much further in to this, so might see can the doctor here in EI who repaired my 290 take a look at both amps for me.
Out of curiosity, what modern(ish) linear amplifiers would be a nice fit for a 290, HT’s etc for 100% portable use (i have no QTH shack)?
So there’s no power. Measure the voltage on the battery, cable, inside on connectors. If it takes you more than 5 mins consider if you are in the right hobby!
I will post a full restoration piece on my blog at some point.
I’ll give it a try though, if not I’ll see can they both be sent away to the EI Jamon Doctor.