New Elecraft Rig: KH1 (Part 3)

The only thing I don’t like about that… the radio is uncomfortable to hold in that configuration with the left hand.

Another op with a 3d printing machine kindly provided one of the switch covers featured earlier and it was worked great for me. I used a very very tiny cord to lash it to the battery cover to avoid losing it.

I can’t open the battery case with the switch cover in place but that part doesn’t matter to me, I just unplug the switch cover if I need to access the battery.


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Oh, what a story :sweat_smile: Carine and I thought, that’s not really how Manuel is doing CW usually, when we had the S2S with you :wink: now we know the reason :upside_down_face: allthough that must have been a big angryness for you, we’re relieved, that the socket, that I’ve replaced on the repair, does still work fine :smiling_face: anyhow, a Happy new year to you and thanks once again for all the nice S2S during the last one - we’re looking forward to many more in 2025 :nerd_face: :nerd_face:

vy 73 de René, HB9NBG + 73/88 de Carine, HB9FZC

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KH-1 modifications & pics

https://www.reddit.com/r/SummitsOnTheAir/comments/1hrmjhp/current_kh1_kit_modifications_pics_links_within/

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It helps to be left handed :wink:

I had a terrible time recently with my factory key sticking, temps were about 20-25F. It was my first time having the rig out in the cold so I’m wondering if this is something others have experienced, or if I ruined the ability to use the OEM key by performing the magnet mod.

If I’m unable to use the OEM key during the winter, I will have to find a way to reverse the modification or worst case scenario purchase a KH1 key from someone that has a spare laying around…

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i had same problem yesterday on oe/st-391 cold and heavy wind.
paddle went in permanent sending dits
with warm breath to paddle i could do 6 qso with qlf /qsd

elecraft Paddle is unusable in cold winter

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@OE6KYG I attempted the same without success on my summit. My fingers were so cold that I didn’t want to fumble with a replacement paddle so I tried to breathe warm air across the Elecraft one. It didn’t work so I switched the paddle to straight key mode, but the paddle was still sticking.

After 5 or 6 QSO’s that I’m sure were just as frustrating for the chasers as it was for me, I switched to the N6ARA. Of course in the process I dropped each paddle down into the ground and had to fumble around with my numb fingers, blow the dirt and ice off, then insert. Ultimately the activation was a success and we had alot of fun, but I certainly learned a few lessons along the way.

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This is well known on the field test list. @KT5X did a lot of testing of this. You need to run a much wider contact spacing in cold WX, otherwise things will bind.

This works for me:
https://on6zq.be/w/index.php/CW/CWglove

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Do you know if the magnet modification poses issues with the wider contact spacing?

Not that I have noticed.

Last night I popped the key in the freezer for 15 mins, made adjustments, and repeated again. The contact spacing in my situation didn’t make a difference but the two phillips head screws required just a slight loosening.

Today I did a brief POTA activation nearby in the snow and was sending correctly at 25wpm without binding or other substantial error so it appears to work temporarily. I know it will require adjustment before each outing though, because the screws worked looser and looser over the 12 min/ 16 QSO activation. It seemed to work with a potentially fatal caveat, as they were remarkably loose when I signalled QRT.

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Perhaps try some blue Locktite. That should keep the screws from working loose. Don’t use the red stuff or you will NEVER get it apart again.

@WU7H Excellent advice, I have also had success with basic nail polish for similar applications where it just needs a little tack without compromising later adjustability. In a few hours we will be locked in by ice so I will have time to experiment.

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You shouldn’t need to loosen the 2 philips head screws, they hold the metal bushings in place. I think your problem is that when cold, the 3d printed part shrinks onto the metal bushing and seizes. The solution is to carefully make the hole in the 3d printed paddle slightly larger so that it rotates freely around the metal bushing that is held firmly in place with the philips head screws.

I used a small piece of fine sandpaper wrapped around a cotton bud stem to remove a small amount of 3d printed material from inside the hole that slides over the metal bushing. You only need to remove enough to so that the paddle rotates with the philips head screw done up tight. Try a little bit at a time, I didn’t have to remove very much. Then you won’t have the problem of the screws working lose when using the paddle.

Jonathan

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Following up on this with some big (to me) developments…

I removed the sleeves that the Phillips head screws thread into. I then took a strip of 1500 grit sandpaper and rolled it into a very small tube shape. I inserted the roll of sandpaper into the hole on the paddle previously filled by the threaded sleeve and pushed it back and forth for a minute or two on each paddle. This removed a remarkably small amount of material, visually it looked the same but I noticed the threaded sleeve inserted much easier into the now-polished holes.

I then applied a small dab of the wife’s pink nail polish to each threaded portion of the Phillips head screws and reassembled the paddles. For anyone else reading, don’t lose those tiny lock washers.

I then adjusted the pretravel on the paddles for the first time (only previously adjusted the set screws that impact overtravel and the switch engagement.

I did this because as I was looking at the magnet-modded paddles it suddenly occurred to me that if I make the magnets closer together, the repelling force will be stronger and more likely to overcome the tiny amounts of friction caused by the contracting plastic around the threaded sleeve.

After adjusting the pre-travel to make the magnets closer together, I placed the paddle on my back patio for one hour. The humidity was 70% and air temp was 28°F (-2° C for the rest of the world). I couldn’t have asked for better conditions for this test.

Well folks, it worked. It worked well. After one hour, I popped the key into the KH-1 and was able to accurately send as fast as my abilities allowed without sticking, binding, blowing on the key, etc.

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Glad you got it sorted! Mine was working very well at 3º C this afternoon on a POTA:

Eagle eyed viewers will spot one of the flock of Scottish Pandas that have migrated south to Cambridge. I left them to roam around the trig point although a couple of the younger ones did look like they were about to ask me if I had caught anything yet.

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