Monte Perdido EA2/HU-003 - Three days in the mountain
Day 1
The adventure started in Gavarnie, where we left the car behind and set off towards the high mountains. The first part of the hike took us up towards the Refuge des Espuguettes. Through the surrounding peaks, the first glimpses of the Brèche de Roland appeared, giving us a taste of what was waiting higher up.
Brèche de Roland from Espuguettes
I had vaguely planned to climb the Piméné on the way, but by the time we reached this part of the route, it was clear that we were already too late to fit it in. So we carried on towards the Brèche de Tuquerouye instead.
Hourquette d'Alans, going to Tuquerouye
The climb is always a spectacular one, and once over the pass, the whole landscape suddenly changes. Mont Perdu and the Cylindre rise above the Lac Glacé, dominating the valley in an almost unreal setting. This was to be our home for the night, and we settled down for a bivouac beside the lake.
From the Brèche itself, were the little refuge was full for the night
Mont perdu from Lac Glacé
Day 2
The second day started with the climb towards Mont Perdu. We crossed what remains of the glacier, and I have to admit that it was a slightly heartbreaking sight. I’ve been here a few times in the past twenty years, and the glacier was a completely different thing back then. Seeing how much it has retreated since is hard to ignore. The old photograph really puts the change into perspective.
The Glacier in the 1900s
Brèche de Tuquerouye, where the refuge is right in that V over the lake, a very peculiar one.
From the Étang Glacé, the final climb towards the summit is not particularly difficult, although the scree makes it fairly physical. Once on top, I quickly set up the ‘SOTA performer’ and made the activation, sticking to 20 metres only. The views were excellent, although the atmosphere was a little hazy, taking away some of the clarity I had hoped for.
Final ascent, from Etang Glacé
Views from the top of Monte Perdido
After the activation, we descended and then headed back up towards the Marboré, at 3251 m, where we planned to spend the night. Carrying four litres of water and a litre of redwine per person from the Étang made the climb considerably more serious than it would otherwise have been. It was hard work, but the reward was worth it. Up there, the views are simply incredible, the kind of scenery that somehow never comes across properly in a photograph.
Cylindre and Monte Perdido in the back
Gavarnie - Pic du Taillon
And then came one of those simple mountain moments that make all the effort worthwhile: spending the night under the stars, above 3000 metres, with nothing around but the mountains and the sky.
The rain in the horizon was quickly replaced by a clear sky for us
Day 3
After a slightly windy night, looking at the stars rather than sleeping, sheltered in our stone circle, the sunset was welcome.
Lac Glacé, Tuquerouye, from the top of Marboré
The third day was mostly about the long journey back down. We took the opportunity to explore the Casteret Cave before continuing towards the famous Brèche de Roland.
After crossing the Brèche, the descent towards Gavarnie seemed to go on forever but the scenery remained spectacular all the way down. And apparently, we weren’t the only ones enjoying the views. This marmot seemed to have a pretty good opinion of the place too.
Cirque de Gavarnie - World Heritage Site
Three days, two summits, a glacier that has changed dramatically, a couple of spectacular bivouacs, and a SOTA activation at 3350 m, a pretty good way to spend a few days in the Pyrenees.
