Other SOTA sites: SOTAwatch | SOTA Home | Database | Video | Photos | Shop | Mapping | FAQs | Facebook | Contact SOTA

Is Tryfan a 3000'er?

Have a look at this link:

This will be interesting as things progress…

73 Marc G0AZS

In reply to G0AZS:

It will be a shame if they put it under 3000ft.

Never the less still a great climb

In reply to M0KPO:
Absolutely Steve… My favourite day out on Tryfan is a walk up to the Heather Terrace and then continue to the summit via Grooved Arete. A proper mountain day…

73 Marc G0AZS

In reply to G0AZS:

Way back in the sixties a group of prominent Scottish rock-climbers made a visit to Snowdonia to sample its vertical delights. They were quite disparaging about the mountains, with one exception - they would have been happy to take Tryfan home with them!

Grooved Arete? A bit broken and indeterminate in places, Gashed Crag is shorter and a little easier but every inch of it is a climb, not a scramble. Another interesting value-for-money day out would be to climb the Great Tower Buttress on the East face of Glyder Fach (500 ft severe) before activating Glyder Fawr.

73

Brian G8ADD

In reply to G8ADD:

Another interesting value-for-money day out would be to
climb the Great Tower Buttress on the East face of Glyder Fach
(500 ft severe) before activating Glyder Fawr.

Obviously it wasn’t enough for Paul and myself to ascend Glyder Fawr via Y Gribin… seems like we must try harder next time. :frowning:

73, Gerald

In reply to G4OIG:
Well you could always pull out a few more stops and repeat Glyder Fawr by doing the Ordinary Route on the Idwal Slabs and then scrambling up the Seniors Ridge to emerge on the summit…or finish with, say, the Central Arete on Glyder Fawr Upper Cliff!

This could be the start of a whole new facet of SOTA! Snowdon by doing Main Wall Climb on Cyrn Las followed by the Gambit Climb on Clogwyn y Ddysgl and the Crib y Person Arete to the summit ridge, or one of the routes to the summit ridge of Crib Goch, or Carnedd Llewellyn by a route on the Black Ladders! A new table might emerge, cumulative roped ascent!

73

Brian G8ADD

In reply to G8ADD:

I’ve been up Tryfan at least 10 times over the years and don’t think I’ve found the same route twice!

My route tends to be up the path from Idwal, bear left to avoid the south peak and just climb up whatever is in front of me.

Even after all this time I still look forward to the sight of Tryfan appearing as I drive along the A5 from Capel Curig.

Cheers

Mick 2E0MCV (2W0)

In reply:

Iain, M3WJZ

Hmmm, I was kind of hoping that this new accurate survey would wipe 150m or so off its height, so I wouldn’t have to do it! But in fact, it is over 2m higher than listed, so I still will!

I’m thinking of taking the path from Ogwen up past Llyn Bochlwyd then making a final approach from the south. This is to avoid as much exposure as possible, although I realise it cannot be avoided entirely on this mountain!

Then it’s a dilemmma. I note Richard G4ERP’s tip to cut left earlier up a grassy bank to miss out the Far South Peak. The map indicates the possibility of a path around the right of the Far South Peak and then up from the saddle where Richard’s path would join. Route websites seem to suggest that the best going is up to the wall at Bwlch Tryfan, then follow the left hand side of that wall to the summit (without crossing it).

Thoughts?

Tom M1EYP

In reply to M1EYP:
I would agree Tom, see photo top right http://mw0idx.co.uk/tryfan.html
as the path leaves the stone wall heading towards the summit.

73
Roger MW0IDX

Route websites seem to suggest that the best going is up to the wall at Bwlch Tryfan, then follow the left hand side of that wall to the summit (without crossing it).

In reply to M1EYP:

Whichever route you take the main exposure is on the summit ridge, and that gives you no options. That being so it strikes me as unnecessary to take the longer route via Llyn Bochlwyd.

There is little exposure for most of the north ridge (unless you seek it!), and only minimal handwork, its a pleasant way up that has had its difficulties ruthlessly exaggerated by most writers. Follow the nail scratches and crampon scars and you can’t go wrong! Another pleasant way up is to gain access to the Heather Terrace below the cliffs of the East Face (follow the track from Gwern y Gof Uchaf farm to a stoney couloir which leads up to the terrace) and where it peters out go up the stoney slope to the col between the South and Far South summits (joining the route that contours round on the east from Bwlch Tryfan.) En route you can admire the antics of the climbers above you!

I once descended the mountain in darkness after a winter excursion took longer than anticipated, and halfway down the headtorch failed, an experience I am in no hurry to repeat!

73

Brian G8ADD

In reply to G8ADD:

There is a nice easy scramble to the summit from the Heather Terrace, North Gully I think it is (consulting my book I see it is in there as little & north gullies) and it “drops” you out right underneath Adam & Eve, if nothing else it’s one way of avoiding both the north and south ridges and I quite enjoyed it, nice and quiet and emerging into the “ampitheatre” was a nice bit of mountain scenery.

Iain, M3WJZ

In reply to M3WJZ:

Taken direct, North Gully gives 60 metres of climbing at Diff standard plus scrambling. I haven’t done it as a scramble, I assume the main pitches of the climb can be avoided. It sounds like fun!

73

Brian G8ADD

In reply to G8ADD:

It sounds like fun!

No it doesn’t.

Tom M1EYP

In reply to M1EYP:

I agree with you Tom. It doesn’t sound fun at all…

This is one I definitely will not be going anywhere near unless I have a very experienced guide who can cope with my fear of heights (exposure).

Exposure does NOT equal fun !!!

Keith.

In reply to M1EYP:

Well, it sounds like fun to an ex adrenaline junky!

73

Brian G8ADD

In reply to G8ADD:

In reply to M3WJZ:

Taken direct, North Gully gives 60 metres of climbing at Diff standard
plus scrambling. I haven’t done it as a scramble, I assume the main
pitches of the climb can be avoided. It sounds like fun!

That must be the Little Gully bit - avoiding the climbing pitches.

I actually found that the exposure was a lot less than, say the popular North Ridge, because you are enclosed in the gully on 3 sides. Trickiest bit was working out the correct gully to head up from the Heather terrace.

Iain, M3WJZ

Edit: I found this nice short summary description of the route on the interweb, you’re right Brian it does avoid the climb up North Gully.

“Starts on Heather Terrace, 20m beyond North Gully a path leads up to a small gully (Little Gully). Climb several easy gully pitches then follow a path leading into North Gully, overcoming one step. Go up the gully using rock on the right to gain the Amphitheatre below the summit. Climb the last narrow gully section and climb out (left) onto the North Ridge.”

In reply to M3WJZ:

I enjoyed Tryfan from the west side past Llyn Bochlwyd and found it a relatively easy route. My suggestion for Tom is to go for a handheld activation to keep the backpack load to an absolute minimum. Balance is important when you have concerns over this type of terrain.

I agree with Brian, the reports on the ascent routes are generally over-hyped, but we need to realise that we are not all the same and what is easy for one may be extremely difficult for another.

73, Gerald

P.S. Laugh at this one - last Tuesday I got vertigo on Dufton Pike! Most weird after having stood on the edge of Y Lliwedd and Trum y Dysgyl in recent months and scrambled up Y Gribin on the way to Glyder Fawr. I can only put it down to the heat on the day and perhaps being a little tired - or as Don G0NES said, not enough beer consumed the night before!

It is a bit airy on top of Dufton Pike! I like to get sat down as quickly as possible up there.

Cracking summit for a Sunday morning activation though - followed by a decent pint at The Stag Inn.

http://tomread.co.uk/dufton_pike_np-027.htm

Tom M1EYP

In reply to M1EYP:

Yes Tom, I read the report before we went. It is certainly hard work for just one point with the steep climb starting after a trek up the track in the sun.

As for Tryfan, I’m sure you would be okay on it if you took it steadily. You certainly have the fitness to cope with it. The summit itself is not at all an issue as there is space for you to sit away from the edge. I sat by the edge near Adam and Eve as it wasn’t a problem for me, which is why I was so surprised about Dufton Pike on Tuesday. I hope that steep grassy slopes are not becoming an issue for me!!!

73, Gerald