Ad hoc radio, antenna or equipment repairs to save an activation

Wondering what stories activators have about ad hoc radio or antenna repairs, either pre, or on summits. There are a few repair stories on the Reflector but most are ‘how to fix my broken product XYZ’. The thread on ‘Tricky repairs’ (not radio-related) prompted this story.

Here’s one to kick it off. My homebrew rig developed an intermittent connection, somewhere on one of the two PCBs. It started as an occasional receiver fault, and sounded like a connector carrying receiver RF, IF or low level audio going open circuit. As is usually the case, it started innocently enough, there occasionally, then not. But like every problem, if left unattended, it did not fix itself. The last time I used this radio, I had to give the upper PCB a firm press down with index finger and the fault went away for the entire activation.

Until my last activation with this project, a few weeks ago, in the Grampians range in south west Victoria. Upon powering it up on the kitchen bench, the fault still existed, but had gotten worse. Again, constant downward pressure applied to the upper PCB made it work, but as soon as the finger was removed, it went dead.

Now you cannot operate a CW paddle on a summit with one index finger firmly planted in your radio’s PCB. At least, I can’t.

Temporary solution? I carved a small piece of wood about 10cm long, adding a niche, so that it could be wedged between a protruding case lug, and the upper PCB. On Mt Abrupt (VK3/VS-011) in the early afternoon, I set up, removed the radio’s top cover, and squeezed the peg in place between lug and PCB, allowing me to complete the activation.

Thinking that there was every chance I might lose the little peg down between some rocks, thereby killing the activation, I even made a second one, and taped this spare to the inside of the top cover. Always carry a spare, they tell us.

Two activations on the day completed, and logs submitted, I now have to face diagnosis and isolation of a tricky intermittent open circuit fault on the workbench, and resolve it once and for all.

Will I get around to that task, or, will this little rig travel with me to another activation, with its two little hand-carved wooden activation-saving pegs in place?

Paul VK3HN, amateur wood carver.

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My FT-817 power lead broke at the fuseholder on Whernside G/NP-004 a few years ago - thankfully I had solder and a butane soldering iron with me. (I’d just qualified the summit after building a RockMite!) :slight_smile:

73, Colin

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Never soldered anything up on a summit - tend to use more temporary repairs. But have had to resolder matching unit connections in the tent on a couple of trips after failures during activations. Have been successful at soldering with camping stove and mercator pocket knife. And a sock to avoid burning my hand on the knife!

Found to my inconvenience on this week’s Haast range trip that this solution does not work with the larger benchtop gas stoves we have in some of the biodiversity huts. Just can’t get the knife hot enough - tip glowing but that’s not enough. So have had a week of operating with coax twisted direct onto toroid windings after the latest BNC socket failed.

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Ahhh yes Colin, your famous ‘climb summit, build transceiver, activate’ epic! That must be some sort of a record, I’m not sure anyone else has attempted that trick, let alone pulled it off. I don’t think too many SOTA Activators carry a butane soldering iron in their emergency toolkit.

Did you ever activate another summit with your ‘summit-built’ Rockmite?

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Excellent ad hoc-ery Matt. Not sure I would have thought of that. Those cannister (butane?) stoves burn fierce hot, but you probably need a small mass of copper tip to retain the heat long enough to melt the solder and behave a bit like a soldering iron tip when pressed against a pad or pin. Every contact draws heat away from the hot tip rapidly.

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Some aluminium foil, solder and matches can be useful. Twist wires together. Wrap a small amount of solder around twist. Wrap joint to be soldered with aluminium foil. Heat with a match. It should (note should) get hot enough to melt the solder and as it’s wrapped up the solder should wick into the joint.

Works for broken wires but not for PCB repairs.

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I’m not sure, I suspect that I haven’t used that rig since my Mountain Goat activation. I ought to take it out. I have used the antenna and key on other activations though.

I can’t really tell any good tales of summit radio repairs as I usually mitigate the need by taking spares. I do now carry a Hex key for my MTR-5B in case it locks up and I’m forced to do a hard reset by taken the clock battery out.

73, Colin

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I’ve had a few links on my dipole break but easy to fix by twisting the wire/s together.

Somewhat harder was the day i dropped my ex-army morse key and it snapped the wires where they entered the body of the key. Unfortunately the key needed a hex to gain access to the working parts of the key. And I didn’t have it with me…

So I stripped an inch or so off the bare end of the wires, held one end in one hand and the other wire between forefinger and thumb and sent morse by pressing the two together. It wasn’t pretty but it worked.

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The driven element of my 2m Tonna got rather bent on the way up to the 2019 Lake District weekend, when the wife-to-be put her rather heavy suitcase on top of it while it lay across the back seat.
(What’s wrong with the car boot?).
It was slowly eased back as straight as I could and then secured in place with some PVC tape thinking “it’ll hold 'till we get home”.
As you can see, the tape was torn to length with my own bare hands…
Now 2023 and it still has the temporary repair. In use once again last night, but just /P with no SOTA

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My 13ele portable is the type that has 2 5A Lucar space terminals for the connections not an N. Much fun and games was had dressing the cable so the match was OK :wink:

Especially as it was assembled/disassembled regularly ever ytime me and Brian G4ZRP went contesting!

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The one in the pic was originally spade terminals, the N-type is an aftermarket addition.
I have 2 spare driven elements, one with spade terminals and one with factory fitted N-type.
A close inspection would reveal how the plastic has been glued back together more than once.
I’m afraid the whole aerial is beginning to show it’s age, but I have not found anything new to replace it.

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It’s for that reason that I kept my portable version and sold off all the other Yagis when I last moved house as I knew it may be sometime before they went up again. But there isn’t anything I can think of like the 13ele Tonna portable.

We use a few M2 5WL antennas (wonderful beasts) but it takes a couple of people a good 30mins to assemble them from their knock down state. We leave the elements attached and just have to assembler the 4 or 5 book sections, the driven element and the boom sag support. Then you have to get the 10m long beast on to the mast…

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Here’s one where I used my teeth as wire strippers to save an activation …

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For 2m? Contradiction in terms. My 3ele Yagi is faff enough for portable use.

This thin solder tape is the ultimate answer, along with a small packet of tinning flux and a butane lighter. Takes up nearly zero space in the pack.

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Nope. It’s not a man-packable antenna but a high performance (for the time) lightweight and quick to deploy antenna. And mine was only £20 in 1990 secondhand and is still viable 33 years later :wink:

What are wire strippers?

“If God had meant us to use wire strippers, he wouldn’t have given us teeth”.

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What are these teeth of which you speak :rofl:

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A picture of the 9 element version packed for transportation.
It really is lightweight and quick to set-up / take down…
Elements are held in place with captive holders and just swing them into place and tighten the wingnut.

See HERE for it in use on G/LD-007 Fairfield

I sometimes take 5 elements for 6M to a summit.
The faff starts when trying to get the elements into the car!

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The 13 ele has 4 boom sections all just a bit longer than the elements. The longest sections are the 2 boom supports that attach to near the mid point of the front and rear and descend to lower on the mast. I shall dig all the bits out over the holidays as it’s been boxed away for 23 years and check nothing has gone missing.

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