A short write-up from a recent 4-day backpacking adventure in Slovakia’s Low Tatras.
Day 1:
Humans encountered: 1
Bears encountered: 0
Summits activated : 1
After a very early 4am start from home, I make my way to Telgart. There is a single attraction in this plain village: the nearby train tracks are arranged in a loop up a bridge and under a tunnel; this allows the train to loose a considerable amount of elevation in a short amount of time!
After a 1h train ride, I arrive in Benus and start walking up; I pass a first snow patch, a couple of crocuses (it turns this is an sneak peak of what’s waiting for me during my trip!).
I reach a hut with full equipment, stove, cutlery etc! While I was not initially planning to stay overnight here after my SOTA activation, I seriously re-consider after checking out the place!
In any case, I continue to Beňuška OM/BB-005 which is the main goal for the day. At the top I realize there’s actually quite a lot of snow up there and this is the lowest planned summit… I wonder what the conditions will be like on the next ones…
After a short activation on 30m, I walk back a couple of minutes to the clearing I passed on the way up to observe the hut; a couple making a fire in front of the hut. I decide to try my chance in the next one which I know is less than one hour walk further. I plan to make a stop at a water spring on the way, so not all it lost.
Arrived at the saddle, surprise! The hut is much better than I expected; it’s new and clean; here’s a lockable door, benches long enough to sleep. Bingo!
Day 2:
Humans encountered: 0
Bears encountered: 0
Summits activated : 2
SOTA is calling! After an event-less night, I wake up at 6am and eat a quick breakfast. I set off after admiring the beautiful sunrise. There’s indeed huge amounts of snow on when reaching higher altitude (the pictures don’t do justice to this). There are not visible traces is the snow, and I often fall well above the knee into it… this is going to be tiring!
I eventually reach Homôľka OM/ZA-082. The views are magnificent. I have another summit for today so decide to wrap-up after the pile-up on 30m dries up.
After another couple of hours walk, I reach Veľký Bok OM/ZA-010. This is the SOTA summit. The air is warm, there is no wind, there is nobody around (I actually have met nobody at all on this day!)… the views on High Tatras are breathtaking. I could spend hours here.
I know my timing is right so take my time, after a successful activation on 30m, I move to 20m and make another 10 contacts or so.
All in all I spend more than an hour on this incredible summit,. I reticently come almost run down to the hut I passed on my way up. I knew it was closed and locked, but was hoping to be shielded from the elements during the night and indeed, there is a recess at the back of the hut, big enough to lay a sleeping bag and even a very low bench. After a quick dinner and a few shots of the sunset, I get to sleep, exhausted…
Day 3:
Humans encountered: 2
Bears encountered: 0
Summits activated : 1
SOTA is calling again; there is a long way to the next summit, but only one so I take it easy today… after a quick breakfast, I manage to pack and set-off before 7am. The day is similar to the previous one, up and down, loads of deep into snow and navigation issues… in some places it probably takes me more than 15 minutes to cover 100m. I know I have a lot of extra time today but I am worried about tomorrow? Will I manage to get to the highest planned summit of the trip at this pace?
After struggling for several hours, I finally get to Veľká Vápenica. I know I have plenty of time to get down to the place I plan to stay overnight; I enjoy a long break and manage to activate 30m, 40m and 20m this time.
After an hour I get down to the hut with a fantastic view on High Tatras. I drop my bag and sit for a while and ponder if front of the panorama… I eventually knock on the door? Nobody… the door is unlocked, I enter… the hut is fantastic, tables, benches, stove, BEER! I’m standing in the hut, speechless.
After the obligatory beer and dinner with the view, I get inside as it gets chilly… After a while a Slovak couple join me… they speak excellent English; We chat about nature and the recently elected Slovak president. I leave them downstairs and take my sleeping bag upstairs.
Day 4:
Humans encountered: 0 beside the couple from the hut
Bears encountered: 0
Summits activated : 0 
I actually had made the decision on Day 3. I will not climb the last summit, Kráľova hoľa OM/BB-003. Day 4 is meant to be as tough as Day 3, so if I go head with my plan I will be home very late at night; this doesn’t appeal to me. So I wake-up a later, have a lazy breakfast and enjoy the view. Short after 8am, I run down the mountain to Porohela where I quickly catch-up a bus to where I parked.
A few final thoughts:
1- 30m works
2- The MTR-3B is my favorite rig ever
3- There’s nothing like SOTA overnighters on this earth - you should try!
4- There can still be plenty of snow left in spring at high altitude…
5- Kráľova hoľa is back on my ToDo list!
I also carry a bear spray; this is the last resort and need very careful usage in what can be a stressful situation. And of course I leave my food well away from my camp.