The capacity is certainly enough Karl, but please nite the NOMINAL voltage is 14.8v, so I have some worries about what the fully charged voltage will be and whether the TS120V will handle the high voltage (even though it says it can handle 16v). Stick a diode in series with the +VE lead, it’ll drop a volt or so and also make sure you don’t connect the leads the wrong way around.
As Colin says, it is a little heavy, but as I carry 2 x 5Ah cells, I guess one 10Ah isn’t going to be heavier!
P.S. don’t forget the trick at Hobby King to stay on that page for a while (and do nothing) and with any luck, you’ll be offered the battery for a further reduced price.
Now charger as unsure which would be right one for this unit.
Yes its just over a Kg but damn sight smaller than what I have here now which is nigh on as big as the trio and twice the weight possible about 7kg.
Would the diode still drop voltage at lower end of scale per haps a box of tricks is required with V meter and switch so when it drops one can by pass the diode.No need for it to be be big bulky etc just simple.
Its weight is just over Kg
Ss for reverse voltage will wire up connectors to it and the rig leads so that it can not be reversed in first place. Prevention always better that cure. Plus be interesting see what it does charge up too when fully charged
Thanks again folks you guys are good for serious advise like this for us starter outers.
Fully charged the battery will be around 4.2 V/cell or 16.8 V or 1 V more than most rigs are spec’d for. So the question is is you rig man enough for this battery? While I do know of people who have run their rig from 4s LiPo batteries without a failure it’s not something I do. Two 30 A diodes in series with shorting switches might be the cheapest way to go.
The charger is similar to one I’ve used for a while now and I would not be without it. Mine is only 2 A but it stops charging when the appropriate terminal voltage is reached and tells me how much charge has been put in.
Going to build me a small box with a 16A diode in as this will drop it nigh on 2v and digital V meters cheap enough as well, but install a switch so when the voltage drops to a more safer Voltage off the battery one can by pass it. Certainly won't be running it with out one for sure be easy enough to build and simple enough and very light weight and make proper connections to match the battery and banana ends on box female and on the rig lead then can stick straight back into the 12v supply here.
Now thing is the charger i have looked at is it many enough to do the battery mentioned above in both cases
before bothering with diodes and wasting part of the capacity by dissipating it as heat why not think about a LiFePO4 like this one: ZIPPY Flightmax 8400mAh 4S2P. Ok, 2 Ah less at the same weight and more expensive. But with a maximum voltage of 14.4V in spec for practically all ham radio gear. In addition LiFePO4 is considered less prone to catch fire.
The IMAX B6 you have selected is quite ok. It can charge and balance both LiPo and LiFePO4.
struggled some time to find out UKL is British pound, especially as I always view the € prices. It’s 70 to 80 € depending on which warehouse and if you get the “waiting discount”. Not a bargain but still cheaper than other suppliers I know.
Do you know a cheaper source of LiFePO4s? Propably Karl, M3FEH would also be interested in one.
Hi Michael, Like you, I believe Hobby King is as cheap or cheaper than other suppliers. In my opinion UKL52 is still expensive for a battery (I have to write UKL as I have no pound symbol on this keybord), quite a lot more than the special price on the LIPO that Karl found (that has gone back up to its original price now by the way). I guess it depends what you think about the safety of LIPOs compared to LIFEPOs.
£58 at UK prices. BUT end of day lot of people swear by them and safer voltage and with my 10w radio should give at least 3hrs play time. Thinks will have to save a few more pennies . But looking at it like this by time order bits fro make me little black box and add it to previous battery I have looked at and now swearing about and kicking ones self. Might be idea just go for a lifepo 4 and just keep an eye on hobby king.
Why kicking myself, well last couple days the other battery was half price was going to put some money into the bank and by yesterday morning its back up again to normal price.
So going to save that link and just see if if it does discount for the odd day and pounce.
So again thanks for all the advise folks most useful indeed
lasty this charger should be man enough would have thought
Turnigy Accucel-6 80W 10A Balancer/Charger LiHV Capable
think to watch for is it’s 80W or 10A. You’ll probably get around 5A charge rate from that one on that battery. So 2 hours to put must of it in, and judging by my early days charging experiences, more than that on top finishing off the balance charge!
[quote=“G3NYY, post:19, topic:11431”]I think GBP is more commonly used, rather than UKL.[/quote]Yeah, a lot more commonly used…
Put “GBP” into Google and the first page of results is all currency-related.
Put “UKL” in, and the first currency-related hit, half way down the page, is "What’s the difference between GBP and UKL?"
A little further down, under “What does UKL mean?” the list of possibilities puts “UK Pounds” after “Ursula K Le Guin” and “Upper Klamath Lake”.
I figure “UKL” is an excellent way of identifying the currency if you want to be a smidge cryptic.
In Business I always used UKL - GBP is the “new boy on the block”. Thanks Pete for the Alt-156 (by the way for others, you have to use the numeric keypad numbers, not the ones across the top of the keyboard, for this to work (at least on a German keyboard) £ .
Back to Karl’s decisions on batteries - I think, if he has decided to go for a 4S LIFEPO - I think 4Ah should be enough for his power usage on a summit - such as this one:
I can recharge my 5Ah LIPO batteries at 2 amps within 2 hours. Karl unless you want to quick charge the battery, you can probably go for a lower powered (and cheaper) balanced charger.