Low band chasing and interference in the shack

Rick, thanks for the suggestion. Is this to solve the high-SWR-on-60m problem I have with the new OCFD or as an alternative to the OCFD?

Re 60m, the problem’s on transmit not on receive. In any case, laying antenna wire on the ground (or burying counterpoises under it - as previously suggested), is totally impractical in my garden [as discussed at length from post no. 66 above].

As I said a few posts back, the low-band noise is much reduced with the new OCFD compared to my old end-end long wire.

Regards, Andy

Hi Andy

I meant it as an alternative to any “in the air” antenna that is picking up excessive noise on receive. The ground quality isn’t relevant as I understand it - it works as well around a concrete yard.

Rick

Andy,
Congrats on the achievement. Your signal was very good when you chased me yesterday.
73,

Guru

Thanks Guru, our QSO was the first of several I’ve had on 20m using the new OCFD and it seems to work quite well. Think I was using either 15W or 25W. The reduction in background noise across all bands has helped a lot listening to weak signals.

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I am not sure whether you found a solution, but what usually helps is

  1. QRM Eliminator
    Amazon Link

  2. Ground Loop Antenna (as suggested here by other members).

I also live in town and the QRM Eliminator can eliminate most of the times (not always) human-made noise so that a weak SOTA station can be copied.

Kind Regards,
Chris, DL1GKC

EPILOGUE:

Although very pleased with the big reduction in background noise using my new homemade 19.5%-80.5% OCFD compared to my old EF LW, I was irked that even my LDG Z11 Pro II ATU couldn’t cope with the 1:10 SWR on 60m (I know it’s asking a lot).

I read that, not only the wire thickness (I’m using thin UltraLite wire), but the type of insulators, feeder (e.g. coax, ladder line), nearby buildings (the 4:1 balun is on the side of the chimney), trees, ground conditions, etc have a noticeable effect upon the electrical length making an accurate length calculation difficult if not impossible in practice.

After reviewing my antenna analyzer SWR plots for each band, I revisited the basic calculation for the total length of a ½-wave dipole and determined I had made it a bit too long.

I shortened the long and short legs by about 60cm and 15 cm respectively and measured the SWRs again. The SWR ‘dips’ had shifted a bit and the ATU could now load up across the 60m band (Harrah!). The 60m beacons and many stations are very strong (5/9+) and I’ve had 58(9) and 59(9) reports on CW and SSB QSOs using 15W.

The SWRs on 80m are not quite as good as with the previous un-shortened wire lengths but that’s making no practical difference. Performance on the higher bands, 30-10m (with the exception of 17m as previously discussed) continues to be excellent.

I’ll not try to tweak it any more as I’m bound to make something worse. As many have said, multi-band HF antennas are a compromise and this one is about right.

Thanks everyone for your suggestions and comments.

73 Andy

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Could you summarise the final dimensions and feed system, please Andy. Any solution giving practical multiband operation will be useful to others.

Thanks 73 Andrew VK1DA/VK2UH

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I settled on a 19.5% to 80.5% split for the short and long wire legs. I optimised for the low end of 80m because I’m mainly CW mode. I chose a bit low (3520kHz) knowing that it was easier to cut wire off if the resonant frequency was too low than add extra wire on.

As discussed in my last post, there are many factors in practise than can’t be quantified for the length determination, meaning that the length may need adjusting after SWR and X,R measurements are made once in situ (which is why I recently bought a Rig Expert AA-35 antenna analyzer).

The ½-wave dipole total length calculation gave 40.53m with the leg lengths 32.62m and 7.91m. I found it difficult to measure out the wire to better than about a few mm. In any case, the sag due to the weight of the wire (~100g for the long leg) must shorten the effective length.

Low visual impact was an important consideration.

Components:
• SOTAbeams antenna wire - PVC-covered, stranded copper wire, 0.22mm² total conductor CSA (approx. 24awg), velocity factor 0.97, weight approx 3.3g/m (colour brown – virtually invisible from the ground - mid grey would be even better against the sky)
• 4:1 current balun - Guanella, 2x FT240-43 ferrite cores, 400-W rating, waterproofed, 485g (small white box on white-painted wetdash finish of chimney stack)
• Coax feeder - 20m of 50Ω RG8X with PL259s (cable upper part spray-painted in disruptive pattern).

Antenna supports:
• Balun attached to bungalow chimney stack (approx. 7m high++)
• Short-leg wire (sloping) to nylon cord (approx. 1.5m long) to gutter bracket at corner of roof (end of antenna wire approx. 4.5m high)
• Long-leg wire to bungee cord (approx. 2m long) tied to multi-stranded nylon cord Halyard (dark green to blend with tree foliage). Halyard goes over branch of mature tree (approx. 15m high++). The halyard is used to raise or lower the bungee support cord for the far end of the long leg as one would for a flag or a sail. The bungee 1) gets the end of the long wire out of the branches and leaves and 2) prevents the wire being stressed as the tree sways about in strong winds.

++The long leg is roughly horizontal but the garden slopes downhill from the house to the large trees at the bottom of the plot, so the antenna wire gains height above the ground as it runs to the tree support.

The 20m of coax feeder runs vertically down from the balun to and briefly along the rain gutter then across to the shack (an outside building about 2m from the house) under its rain gutter and in near the door and then to the operating desk. The firm that makes the current balun says additional choking (loops of coax, ferrite rings etc) shouldn’t be necessary.

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Thanks Andy for your dimensions etc. Very useful, might have a go at building one.

73 Geoff vk3sq

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