@M0LEP: Can you give me more details about you GP verticals ? It seems that isn’t the 1/4 lambda I use
Sorry for the “silly” question.
73,
Petronel
YO8SEP
I’ve used the same quarter wave design that’s been described elsewhere on this reflector. See Andy’s post here: Looking for a third continent for Mountain Hunter - #43 by MM0FMF
I just make sure that all of them hang with their feedpoint at the same height, and have cords from their elevated radials so that the combined length is the same on all of them, and also the same distance from the pole as the pole’s lower guy lines. Here’s one of them on a 6 metre pole (which doesn’t quite get the radials to 45 degrees).
73, Rick M0LEP
Very similar with my antenna. I use 4 radials instead of 3 that are also used as guy to anchor antenna. The radial angle isn’t 45 because of only 7m pole, but Mmana-gal and real antenna get swr under 1.5:1 .
For wire i use some Cu wires from UTP Cat5 eyhernet cable. Can’t find a better, thin/light cable
73,
Petronel
“Pike - fishing rod support”
Nifty idea that but keep your support lines and pins handy in case its too rocky
might have a word with a friend see if he can knock me one up
Karl
In ARRL’s "Wire Antenna Classics, page 8-13 there is a “Four-band ‘Tree’ Antenna” which is adaptable for SOTA. Basically it is three parallel vertical radiators with a common radial system, the 40-metre radiator working on 15 metres. Following the general idea in the article you could make a version for any selection of bands. This way you would not have to change antennas to change bands.
Brian
Going back to the original question; I think two conditions need stating:-
How many bands/ which bands?
Will four of the group help set up?
I suggest that these lead to different answers to your question.
73,
Rod
The “Four-Band ‘Tree’ Vertical” article is available from the ARRL here: http://www.arrl.org/files/file/protected/Group/Members/Technology/tis/info/pdf/9511071.pdf
That and other articles are linked from this page: http://www.arrl.org/hf-vertical
It is simple, with three parallel radiators cut for 10, 20, and 40 meters. The diagram shows the 40m vertical as an inverted-L.
For two bands, you could use window line for the stretch where the two elements are in parallel, then add on wire for the longer element. The 15/40 meter trick would still work to get three bands, of course.
If you have a wide-range tuner, a vertical for 20m is roughly 5/8 wave for 17m, which should work well.
For radials, two resonant radials work nearly as well as three and even one radial works pretty well. That gives a bit of directionality towards the single radial. Running one radial per band would be enough for many purposes.
K6WRU
[quote=“K6WRU, post:15, topic:9787”]even one radial works pretty well[/quote]By that stage you’re pretty much using a (more or less) vertical dipole 
I went with the mono-band gp vertical antennas because they were an easy educational exercise to construct, they’re simple to put up and take down, and, so long as I carry more than one I have a fallback antenna if one gets broken. Of course, it’s usually the pole (or something else you’re only carrying one of) that fails…
I’ve found it’s worth looking for telescopic flag poles rather than telescopic fishing poles, as the fishing poles are often too flexible near the tip.
73, Rick M0LEP
Because of limited time it will be monoband only, 20m.
I can get help from 1-2 friends to set up the antenna.
Hi,
Here on the East coast of VK 40 m is the band of choice for a quick activation. Next most useful if further away from the Sydney-Canberra-Melbourn- Adelaide line is 20 m. However 30 m can fill in some holes in coverage. Only if conditions are very good is it worth worrying about higher bands over here. Our nearest dx is 2,500 km away but most is 12,000 to 18,000 km away via short path.
I use a 40/30/20 m croclink dipole (link dipole using crocodile clips) and support it and its thin coax from various telescopic fibre glass poles from 4 to 10 m long. I use a stake in the ground for the pole and two pegs for the ends although sometimes tree branches and rocks have been used instead. It takes 10 minutes to put up with most of the time spent unwinding the wire and feeder. Dropping the pole section by section allows for a fast band change. I’ve found that, up to the stage where the mast splits due to extreme wind, no guys are required. I do sometimes align the dipole so it is end on to the wind and the stake is also aligned for max strength. They are a small section of arc of a tube cut length ways, so not flat but not a quadrant in enclosed angle. I have a steel stake with rings and aluminium stakes with velcro ties. There are always three masts ready to go in the garage. The stakes mean I am independent of trig points supports etc. I carry a small 300 g hammer to drive the pegs into hard ground and a piece of wood to avoid damaging the top of the stake when bashing away with the little hammer.
Tuned doublets with 7.2 m per side or 14.4 m per side fed wit 300 ohm line and a balanced ATU will give all bands from 40 m to 6 m with QSY as fast as you can tune the ATU. Some of us use these over here.
I’ve also used a G5RV, OCFD, EFW and 1/4 W verticals. The croclink dipole is still my preference for ease of erection and efficiency on 3 bands. I prefer to use an ATU to be kind to the PA but have had a number of activations without the tuner and no smoke was seen.
73
Ron
VK3AFW
Situation is a bit different here in YO.
Most of my chasers are DL, EA, G/M which are fine for 20m. Not many chasers close by in YO, HA, LZ, so I will be better with 20m than 40m.
When I have time it will be nice to activate multiband and try some DX in USA or Australia, but this weekend time on summit will be limited, so I will just activate on 20m and hope to have time to work every chaser I can hear.
73,
Petronel
YO8SEP
Quick setup will be a linked dipole trimmed for 20m and with a few m of string on each end; no ATU.
One helper holds pole; peg one guy (only) downwind.
You hold pole, sending one helper with each end of the dipole to form a shallow V upwind and peg down ends of string.
Works fine Force 4 wind and below; needs 3 guys in stronger wind.
I use this setup with a 60/40/20 dipole; erecting single handed takes longer walking to-and-fro to the ends.
73,
Rod
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On the pole support front, I have taken to guying a walking pole to start with, using three guys with a running loop on one end, which tightens around the handle of the walking pole, and a fixed loop the other, which goes on the peg. Very quick to set up, even in strong wind. No knots to tie / untie with numb fingers. The fishing pole is then bungied to the walking pole. It is easily manageable for one person, and quick to raise and lower the fishing pole for antenna changes etc.
Adrian
G4AZS
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That’s an interesting idea Adrian.
Is it secure enough?
How long do you extend the walking pole?
Must give it a go next time i’m out.
72
Pete 
With a bit of practice, it’s no problem to put up an inverted-V dipole single handed with no need to guy the pole independently and only one trip to each peg. I find I only need assistance if the wire gets tangled in heather, and I only need multiple trips if I get the pegging out wrong in the first place.
That being said, I did it wrong many times before working out how to do it right!
Martyn M1MAJ
It seems very secure compared to directly guying my 5m pole. In high wind I use two bungies, one at the top and one at the bottom - unless the ground provides a good register for the base of the pole.
I use the walking pole at normal walking length, probably about 1 metre.
Especially convenient in circumstances like this, where holding and guying a pole could be awkward. I could have chosen an easier spot within the AZ, but this was a VHF activation, where relative height can be very useful.
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I think, if you are going to use only 14mhz, a mono band dipole, inv. vee, rg174 coaxial, 6-9m pole, and 2 more guys to help rod to stand will do.
If you are going to make it on several bands, I like the linked dipole, but you must spend times gettng up and down the pole for every band change.
I’m using now a norcal doublet, less weight, no need to move the antenna once set up, and with a 4:1 balun usable from 7 to 28 mhz. I only need about 7-10 mins to set it up, and then, forget it!
But you know, on antennas, you can find as many oppinions as hams…
73 de Mikel
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My dipole is cut for 80m, and has links for 60m 40m 20m and 10m Unless there is a particularly perverse dip in the ground, I find I can reach as far as the 40m links without dropping the antenna. I am well below average height. I just grab the wire where I can reach it, and walk along pulling it down until I get to the link. The pole bends a bit but that’s fine.
To change the 20m or 10m links I do need to drop the antenna. I used to think this was a pain until I decided to try the “just do it” method. Pick up the pole at the bottom and move it towards the back guy peg, letting it fall gently. 5 seconds at most. Change the links. Reverse the process, picking up the pole at the base and flipping it back into the air, simultaneously walking it forward to plant it back on the ground where it was before. 10 seconds at most. No need to unpeg anything - if it stayed up before it will stay up afterwards as you haven’t changed the geometry.
If you have an assistant available, as I often do, you don’t even need to take the wire all the way to the ground. Just drop it enough that the assistant can reach the links, holding the pole at a suitable angle. Then just flip it back into position.
Martyn M1MAJ
Actually, I’ve done the same process -last weekend i.e.- and sometimes, f.i. when more than one are operating on the summit, IMO it’s better to work with sintonized antennas to minimize interferences, I admit. But while you (me) are making all that dance (always supposing you are on a summit wide enough, and without breathe or trees around to make it more difficult), with the norcal you simply push the band change, and ready. Even more when it is raining or snowing and all is wet. You have not to go out from your shelter to do all it…
And for the record, I really like the linked dipoles, but now we are talking about speed and ease
73 de Mikel