Every year Shadow and I make an annual pilgrimage to a remote part of the Scottish Highlands for an escape. This year’s destination was to climb the remote Corbett of Ben Aden GM/WS-122 in the Rough Bounds of Knoydart.
Ben Aden has been on my list to climb ever since I first saw it while walking the Cape Wrath Trail in 2019. A chaotic mass of crags and rocky slabs above a remote valley carrying the River Carnach, it looked every bit the mountain that Knoydart deserved. It is regarded as one of the finest and most remote mountains in Britain.
The trip began with a long journey up the M5/6/74 journey to Mallaig and the ferry across to Inverie. After the an obligatory lunch stop in Mallaig, we headed out into the wilderness.
Mam Meadail
Camped up at Camasoury Bay
Our destination for the first night was Camasory Bay. The approach involved crossing the historic pass of Mam Meadail, then descending 600 metres to a camp at the river Carnach and Camasoury Bay. With a heavy pack and warm conditions it was a slog.
Eventually we reached Camasory Bay and pitched camp amongst the ruins of the old crofting settlement. It is a magnificent location, surrounded by mountains and looking out across the sea and rough bounds of Knoydart.
Unfortunately, the night was not particularly restful. Shadow kept waking me tending to himself and waking me up. At the time I thought little of it, just telling him off for being an idiot.
The following morning we made an early start, heading inland along the River Carnach towards Ben Aden. A couple hours in I noticed that Shadow was developing a slight limp when on rough ground. We stopped for a treat and I examined him carefully. The back of one of his pads had been rubbed completely raw.
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Start of the ascent of Ben Aden
It looked painful, but the problem was that we were already committed, deep in the Rough Bounds. After weighing up the situation I decided to continue while keeping a very close eye on him, with the option to carry Shadow as I had plenty of space in my pack, just packed for the day. The terrain ahead was mostly grassy and involved climbing rather than prolonged travel over rough stony tracks.
Thankfully Shadow seemed comfortable enough and showed his usual enthusiasm. As the mountain drew closer it became obvious why Ben Aden enjoys such a formidable reputation. The mountain is an extraordinary jumble of crags, slabs, rocky towers and hidden ramps. Route finding became a constant puzzle. Progress was not difficult, but slow as there was always another obstacle to negotiate.
Eventually we emerged onto the summit ridge and reached the top. Sadly no views this time as we had climbed into the cloud. Out with the radio, this trip was lightweight with just taking a 2m handle with a RHS770s handheld antenna and my trusty KX2.
I quickly worked Gordon, @GM4OAS, before setting up on HF. Conditions on 40 metres were excellent and a steady stream of contacts followed. It was particularly reassuring to hear Don @GW0PLP checking in to see how both Shadow and I were getting on.
With the activation completed, we had lunch and I cleaned Shadow’s paw. Although he had managed the ascent remarkably well, it was obvious he was uncomfortable. Originally I had planned to continue on to Sgùrr na Cìche, but that idea was abandoned and I let friends know via Iridium. The descent back towards the River Carnach confirmed the decision with Shadow limping much more noticeably, opting for a three legged hop on many occasions.
We returned to camp in the late afternoon where the priorities were straightforward: brew, food and dog first aid.
Once upon a time, someone crofted this remote part of the highlands
After cleaning the damaged pad properly it was obvious that the injury was very painful and more concerning than I had first thought. We still had a very long walk back to Inverie and so I decided that we should probably cancel further bagging plans.
The original plan had been to return to Mam Meadail and then climb Beinn Bhuidhe on the way out. The next morning we packed camp early and began making our way back towards the pass with the intent of returning to Inverie.
Ben Aden and Sgurr na Ciche
To my surprise, Shadow was coping and much more comfortable on grassy terrain than rougher tracks. Once we reached Mam Meadail I reconsidered the route and decided we would continue via Beinn Bhuidhe as it was trackless and mostly grass, avoiding much of the rough gravel path that would only aggravate the injury further.
By the time we approached the summit, Shadow was spending much of his time on three legs and very uncomfortable putting weight on his bad pad. We stopped frequently for water, treats and plenty of encouragement. What a champion.
I had fully prepared myself to carry him if necessary, but this would have been difficult with a full pack and probably meant leaving some equipment on the hill to reteive at a later date.
Eventually we reached the summit of Beinn Bhuidhe and got a quick activation underway. It was a pleasure to work Jared, @G5JFJ, who was activating a summit near Glencoe at the same time, a really nice 2m contact.
View from Beinn Bhuide
From there it was a long descent, heading for Inverie most of which shadow only used three legs/paws. Several hours later the village finally appeared below us.
With time to spare before the ferry, Shadow and I settled into the Old Forge for several hours of well-earned recovery. Shadow recieved sympathy, treats and a considerable amount of fuss from Bar staff as he hoped around the bar on three legs.
Shadow needed the beer
Looking back, the mountains were spectacular, the radio was excellent and the weather largely kind. But Shadow the cocker spaniel proved to me what a great mountain companion his is.
A huge thank you to everyone who called in during the activations. especially the Iridum support from @MM0EFI and @GM5ALX
Despite the setback, another unforgettable Knoydart adventure.
After a visit to the vets
great to get you from Ardsheal Hill, some big hills between us!
