Shetland SOTA expedition 2017

#Valla Field GM/SI-195

There are a few ways to do this summit. You can drive along the access track to the former TACAN site. This track is marked as being unusable about 2/3rd along leaving the final assault by foot. Or you can drive to Newgord and walk past Breck of Newgord and up the steeps slopes. Or you can drive to the hamlet of Alma and park and walk up the less steep slopes. Which is what I did. There’s space for a single car by the track that leads on to the moor. And up here, the chances of meeting walkers on such a remote summit are unlikely. But I met people on both of Unst’s SOTA summits!

I followed the track and the the fence across moorland. It was a bit boggy in places but easy going in reality. However, the problem is not the ground but the local inhabitents, The Bonxie or Great Skua. These are very agressive birds who will dive bomb and try to scratch / hit you with their feet if you walk near their ground nests. There’s lots of footage on Youtube of Bonxie attacks. By August they are a bit less agressive. Hmmm. As I continued to climb I notice the large birds circling, probably 5-10 at a time. They did start to come nearer and lower as I walked on but changing my course.

I did have my “patented” Bonxie protector with me. They attack the highest part of target. With a fishing pole already being higher tan my head in the bag, I added a much bigger visual target. This was a 1.5m long piece of 5m fibreglass dowel with a large blue plastic bag attached. I was hoping any attackers would go for that and be a safe distance above my head. As it was none came much closer than about 10m above me. But it was unnerving to see them circling and get closer. As one or more broke off as I continued walking, another one would rise from the ground and start circling. As they have a wingspan approaching 1.5m, they do seem quite big even when not so close.

A zoomed shot of a Bonxie that had just landed.

It’s about 200m ascent and 1.2km walk so 35mins later I was approaching the trig point. By heck it was blustery at times but the views were supreme. Lots of clouds scudding by then lots of blue sky. Wonderful stuff.

The next target of the day. Saxa Vord GM/SI-157. The installation is the former Cold War RAF Radar Station. They used to have a seriously powerful search radar up here looking for Soviet TU-95s and the like coming to probe UK air defences. With the ending of the Cold War, this was a very expensive to run facility and it was slowly closed down. Part of it has been sold so you can now drive to th lower of the buildings in that phoot. Everyone will tell you it’s abandonned. That’s far from the truth as I was to discover.

One of the things I missed was seeing aircraft. When I lived in Liverpool, it was a few miles from the airport. I grew up watching the planes coming and going. When I lived on the Wirral, I lived a couple of miles from a main VOR site. I used to see lots of aircraft at 30000ft turn as the passed over WAL on the main flight path from this bit of Europe to and from the USA. There was nearly always something visible high up. Now I live near (but not under) Edinburgh Airport flightpath. As I look out of the shack window I can see a steady procession of 737s, A319/320, Dash 8s etc. And in Shetland? Nothing. I saw one plane all the time here and when I tried to photgraph it, the camera autofocussed on my antenna!

I found 40m workable but hard going. There was a lot of excitment to bag this summit with a few people on top of each other and a fair bit of confusion over who I was working. I made it worse by spotting myself on Scrae Field SI-194 first. Despite several people spotting the correct ref, I was asked many times to confirm the ref. Fair enough, but it added to the mild chaos. 40 went quiet and nothing was worked on 30m. Time to move on.

I realised that I didn’t have any photos of my station setup yet. I kicked myself for not taking a shot of the 13cms setup 2 days backl, so I stopped the take down and snapped away.

The 5m pole collapsed with dipole legs still attached, trig point and old disused TACAN base in the background. Andy’s patented Bonxie target is on the right.

Looking back across Bluemull Sound to Yell. In the very far distance, Ronas Hill GM/SI-086, the biggest Shetland summit can be seen.

The walk back to the pickup, parked by the nearest buildings on the left. The heather was in full bloom.

This is a very easy summit but had not been on the air since 2011. I survived any Boxies as well. Back at the pickup, time for a chocolate bar and then the drive North to Britain’s most Northerly Marilyn.

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#Saxa Vord GM/SI-157

This is the most Northerly UK SOTA summit. Most ‘X’ summits always have an appeal and draw because they are most ‘X’. This one has a draw because for a long time it was not possible to get into the AZ due to RAF Sax Vord, a WWII to Cold War RADAR station at the top.

The station operated RADAR from 1940 to about 2006. From 1998-2004 it was a remotely operated station with most of the staff stationed elsewhere and for a few years later it was manned again. Then it was shutdown as surplus. The old accomodation at the bottom of the hill was sold and is a holiday resort now. More recently the middle buildings have been sold and the MOD road is open. That makes access easy.

As I drove through Baltasound on the way up I thought I saw a guy in camoflage but thought it was just someone in combat trousers. I was soon to find out otherwise. I got to the bottom of the once private road and noted the signs saying keep out etc. had gone and there were proper speed limts signs etc. The surface is immaculate and that had me puzzled. The site has been shut for over 11years so the road should be breaking up due to water run off and freezing. The last official visits were in 2014 when the radomes from the old dishes were removed. They were falling apart and needed to be removed so there was no flying debris in a gale. And they get gales here, the highest UK windspeed of 194mph was recorded here! At the top of the road you pass the guardhouse and I pulled over to start getting my gear ready for the final 10mins walk to the AZ. Boy is it a sorry place with massive decay on the buildings…

That’s when a car came down from the top site. I had a chat to the occupants who said they regularly drove up to the top. So I got back in and drove up to the top gate which was open. Lots of signs saying RF hazard from the RADAR days and others saying how bad it was for non-authorised people to be here. Well that’s what you expect from a former secret(ish) place. But the fencing looked new and that felt wrong. It was a struggle but I turned around without entering the compound and pulled over to some hardstanding. I got out and was unloading the gear when the man in camoflage gear came running down from inside the compound. He wasn’t happy. Nor was I.

We had a chat and he was very polite but he did stress just how naughty I had been driving here. I admitted my guilt and said the place is abandonned. He told me no, the RADAR has gone but the base is active. That was news to me. We talked for some time and explained SOTA and what I wanted to do and again apologised for driving on his road and said I’d come from near Edinburgh and thought it was typical, the one day I come to visit an “abandonned” site there was work taking place. I think the fact I could prove my ID (driving licence) and that I admitted I was wrong to ignore the sign was what bought me some “compassion”. I wasn’t going to be allowed on site to photo the trig even with him. But he couldn’t stop me standing outside the fence nor was he worried about my radio bothering him. Due to works occuring he requested I operate from near where I had parked and didn’t go wandering around the perimeter. I was given a time to be gone from his base and that was that. I really thought he was going to be really heavy but I can only assume being honest paid off. I got permission to sit outside and play.

Now Scottish Access Rules means he couldn’t stop me when outside the fence but I was happy to follow his request not to wander about as he only told me off and wasn’t taking things further which he could have done. I also decided that taking photos of the old top site and antennas which would interest you all would also be like poking a sleeping bear with a big stick, so the photos are bit thin.

I set up and worked 60m/40m and things were again OK but hectic as lots of people thought I was working them and not someone else. So I happily worked away and when 60/40 was clear of any more chasers I spotted for 30m. That’s when the RAF colour-scheme Land Rover arrived with a security man inside. Several tourist cars had driven up and reversed down in the time I was there. Same routine, same explanations and same apologies. We discussed the equipment on the commercial mast by where I was operating and agreed it was all VHF and UHF so I would not be a problem to those systems on LF bands. Driver’s licence details taken and permission to stay till 1500 given. He did say it’s a nightmare because locals advise tourists to drive right to the top to get a good view of Muckle Flugga and Out Stack. But that didn’t make my trespass offense less serious. So that was a telling off twice. I worked a few more on 30m and took some non-base photos, packed up and got the hell out of Dodge as fast as I could in case another secuirty dude came who was in a bad mood and wasn’t going to be so pleasant as these guys were.

This sign is still valid do not drive up the road especially if the site is manned.

In the AZ? Yes! Look at that grid ref, the furthest North on land I have ever been.

The views on this now exceptionally lovely day were brilliant, the NW tip of Unst.

Looking towards the NW most edge of Unst

South to the old really abandonned Sothers Field site.

The FMF-mobile at the end of the public access road by the old really-abandonned buildings. Old radome base visible.

Muckle Flugga lighthouse taken from lower down the access road.

The Ness, on the way to Herma Ness with a Bonxie soaring in the wind.

Hmmm. That could have been bad but I managed to activate. I did a lot of detailed searching when I got back and the RAF’s own public facing website lists everything that happens here for all and sundry to read about. It’s strange so much information leads you to think the base is abandonned. Plus there are lots of modern pictures of what is located here if you are keen to put 2+2 together. There’s lots of gossip regarding new developments for this site. So let’s put it this way, if you want to bag this one I suggest you get it done whilst the environment at the top is as inviting as it today.

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Wonderful expedition Andy, thanks for sharing. Can’t believe it’s ten years since I was there, I desperately want to get back and finish the job now :-s

Looks like things are changing at Saxa Vord - when I was there, although the gates were intact the fences were in a decrepit state and it looked like dismantling work was going on to the lower buildings. I was told by my hosts (RAF personnel involved in establishing the tourist facility) it was fine to go up there, but was requested to stay outside the fence line for Elfin Safety reasons. Shame the Radome has gone, it was an interesting feature and clearly visible from Valla Field too.

73 de Paul G4MD

Shetland is an amazing place. It’s terribly pretty even in horizontal rain and when the sun comes out… amazing. I still have the Hill of Arisdale/HU58 report to go. You were there when I think the bands were just starting to come out of the sunspot minimum, It was certainly less than brilliant propagation for me which is annoying when these squares, trigs, summits are really quite rarely on the air.
Stiil, always next time.

If you wait till after Jan 1st 2018 then it will cost only 55-60% of what it does now to take the ferry. I’ve still got plenty of Shteland summits to bag never mind Orkeny and the Western Isle. Not enough free time and money to do my own country never mind England, Wales, the rest of Europe and and and.

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