Sgribhis-bheinn GM/NS-139: activating from the end of the world

Sgribhis-bheinn GM/NS-139 is the UK’s most Northerly mainland SOTA summit. I’ve activated the most Northly in the UK, Saxa Vord GM/SI-157 on Unst in Shetland in 2017. That was simple, Edinburgh to Aberdeen, ferry to Lerwick, drive to end of Mainland, ferry to Yell, drive to end of Yell, ferry to Unst, drive to end of Unst. Drive up into AZ on the old Army exclusive RADAR access track to find the RADAR being restored to full operation (because of that nice Mr. Putin) and nearly get arrested. Activated after a lot of sweet talking.

But Sgribhis-bheinn is harder! So I first discovered this summit when starting SOTA and then I discovered you have two routes to get there. The summit is in the huge seriously remote Cape Wrath Peninsula that is not connected to the UK road network. Known as Am Parbh, it has only 2 humans resident and they run the cafe in the now automatic lighthouse at the most North Westerly point in the UK mainland. The routes are: walk in from the South on The Cape Wrath Trail, out along the lighthouse road and get the passenger ferry. Or get the passenger ferry and the visitor minibus. The driver of the minibus is an excellent bloke but is somewhat bored driving the awful condition road 4 times a day so if you want anything special such as a drop-off and pick-up, then you have to be interesting to him. Andy MM7MOX had booked us places but when we signing in there was an issue. Dropping us off no problem and collecting us on the return journey was no problem. But that was the same bus we went out on and the would be hardly any time for radio. We wanted collecting on the last bus and he could not guarantee us spaces. When Andy explained why we need time, radio, SOTA and the fact no radio activity had taken place he was much more ammenable to our “interesting story”. So if you want a special trip entertain the man. Oh and the last thing making access difficult is it is a massive military firing range. The only place in W. Europe were Air Force, Army and Navy conduct joint exercises and they shell the are from the sea, bomb it, strafe old tanks, shoot mortars and generally test funky weapons.

So to recap: to get to the summit, you need no military exercises, a ferry place, a minibus place (you could walk) and acceptable weather. So quite a few ducks to get in a row. And for me and Andy in the Edinburgh area it was a 7hr drive to stay with Andy’s mum in the Flow Country then a 2hr drive to Keodale on the day in question. A bit of effort needed.

Now the WX has been stunning and was now starting to change. We were meant to go on Monday 26th but changed to Friday 23rd. We got the most exquisite WX, the last good day. Brilliant blue skies, strong sun, little cloud. It was windy enough to keep the Midges down. The wind was strong but not gusting. Almost perfect WX, the active sunspot had caused some flares but nothing we could do about that.

We got to Keodale for 0715Z which meant we were up a 0430Z to take drugs, have breakfast and do the 2hr drive. At the car park we had a second breakfast of Pain au chocolat which I was able to metabolise as my diabetes drugs were now working :rofl: Then we got in the boat at 0815Z and ten minutes later were on the far slipway.

The view eating second breakfast waiting for the ferry. That boat is the ferry! Looking down the tidal Kyle of Durness. Middle distance on the left is Beinn Spionnaidh GM/NS-046, behind that is Cranstackie GM/NS-038. In the far distance are the Quartzite twins of Arkle GM/NS-042 and Foinaven GM/NS-023. The lush green land on the right is Am Parbh/Cape Wrath.

In the bus and off we went. I got a few texts as we travelled what is laughingly called a road at 10mph in the Transit based minibus. It is a public road so any vehicle needs MOT and insurance, just because it’s not connected to the road network doesn’t absolve you from obeying the law! Texts? Yes, my EE phone on Band 20 (800MHz) had full strength showing on the S meter… madness! We were dropped around NC310706 and my phone had a full or 3/4 full strength signal the whole time.

So we jumped out and set off and promptly got nowhere fast. The ground was dry after 5 weeks of no rain and wind but nothing prepares you for the ground. The grass/heather/moss etc. was amazingly deep and each step caused our feet to sink about 150 to 250mm into the vegetation. The ground underneath was firm-ish but it was very energy sapping and quite hard work to walk on the flat. I’d give a simple rule of thumb that if your favourite walking program gives you times to walk that you should double those times to allow for the ground. In fact once we started to climb the ground got much easier and even the slope didn’t slow us as much as the thick grasses had.

And just like that we were at the top. And it was a visual treat. I don’t think we could have asked for much better WX.

Looking NW at the trig point Sgribhis-bheinn GM/NS-139

Now this is a live firing range and everyone is told to avoid any debris. There was lots. Andy MM7MOX rides a motorbike and is much more observant than I am and he spotted large amounts of shrapnel on the ground, a dummy mortar round and hundreds of rounds of NATO 7.62x51mm GPMG ammunition with the disintergrating links.

40mm mortar round. Aluminium case and cast iron fragmentation at the top. We didn’t know if this was a dummy training round or something that hadn’t gone bang so we didn’t touch it / move it. Glove for scale.

GPMG rounds. Obviously all spent and examined. L45A1 stamped in them means “tracer round”

Not everything is so ugly… a Grass Eggar moth with an EU 43 boot for scale.

At the top we setup 2 stations. Andy + FT818 + link dipole for 40-10m and flowerpot for 2m. Myself 50m away with a KX2 + trapped EFHW for 40/30/20 (but the KX2 ATU makes it work on everyband.) Andy’s 818 has an intermittent HF fault so he started on 2m. He intended to do SSB later and I was doing CW only but as his radio would not work I did some 40m SSB at the end to offer the summit to non-CW stations.

Looking towards Canada and Andy MM7MOX’s antennas.

My setup looking East towards Balnakiel Bay (sandy beach) and the entrance to Loch Eribol. It was starting to cloud and haze up to the West now.

Another disaster solved… Andy’s hat blew off as we arrived in the strong wind and he caught before it dropped off a 100m very, very steep drop!

I managed to work 6 on 30m CW(F, HB9, EA, G, I, OH), 6 on 17m CW (OH, F, I, EA), 2 on 10m ( I, F ), 5 on 15m (S5, F, SV) and 11 on 40m SSB (G, GM, LA). I also wandered over and worked on 2m FM QSO into The Western Isles.

During my time on CW Andy wandered over with a stupid grin on his face… he had just managed to qualify one of the UK’s most remote summits on 2m. It was because VHFers out here do like a visitor to come and play. He had 2m FM and SSB QSOs to the Western Isles plus QSOs to Wick and to my friend Martin GM8IEM near Lochinver, a non LOS path. ISTR we celebrated with either mini pork pies or jelly babies :slight_smile: That’s just super cool isn’t it, the 2m qualification not the food!

Whilst at Andy’s station I took some photos of his awesome views.

Looking to the end of the world! Cape Wrath lighthouse can just be seen at the end of the peninsula… keep going and next stop is Newfoundland. The bay is Kervaig and there is a bothy there. That’s one of the best coastal views I can recall in the last 25 years. The breakers sounded amazing.

Oh, go on, here’s the same shot with the lens zoomed in. Bothy and path from the road. That’s a bit of wow view.

Ben Loyal GM/NS-052 in the far centre, Ben Hiel GM/NS-103 to the left. The tide is now out in the Kyle of Durness.

Looking out East, Dunnet Head, the most Northerly mainland point is just discernable in the haze.

I became determined to get Sgribhis-bheinn activated when I saw it from Quinag last October. Here is Quinag in the haze.

And this is the view from Quinag last year, Fashven is the dome summit and Sgribhis-bheinn to the left.

Summit junk! I should say that I had end-stop 4G signal here on EE. Andy’s Vodaphone signal was very strong at my side of the summit and dropping off when he was down slightly out of the wind. But both are viable from the top for spotting etc.

End of May in Scotland… Buff and Hat, Hagloffs Belay Jacket over a fleece! I was just nice in the sun and wind dressed like this.

Fashven GM/NS-124. For a while I thought we may be able to do both. No the ground is too slow to allow it and meet the bus. Quinag to the right of Fashven and Beinn Spionnaidh is the big hill in the distance. Just behind Fashven is Farmheall GM/NS-108. Farmheall can be reached by foot without needing rocket shorts, hover boots, boats, planes or Star-Trek transporters.

We’d decided on a sensible pack up time so we could do a bit more exploring on the way back to the bus pickup point. The walk back was uneventful and the bus driver did as he promised, reserved 2 seats for us. Back to the slipway, ferry back and we had 25 minutes chill out time before the 2hr drive back home.

I’ve been wanting to come here and do this summit since Easter 2009. I’ve always found some reason to do something else rather than actually do it. Seeing it in person last year was the motivating force but the whole weekend of events was only possible because I piqued Andy MOX’s interest and he arranged much of this and his mum was happy to allow bearded, grey giffer to stay in her house. And boy did she look after us.

Watch this space because me, Andy and Alan MM0VPM have got more SOTApeditions planned for Am Parbh.

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…terrific photo.

cheers :beers:

Geoff vk3sq

I forgot to post this overview map of Am Parbh and the SOTA summits.


(C) Crown Copyright 2015

Also this is the summit seen from where we got out of the bus and climbed it.

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Heh heh, that did make me smile!

Fantastic report!

Fantastic report. Brought back memories of taking my bike on that ferry and cycling to Cape Wrath as part of a cycle tour of the north west of Scotland around 45years ago - long before SOTA.

Just a bit! Looks great. Nice snaps and report!

Brilliant trip Andy x 2!

It looks windy, but not bad all things considered!

I have been out there a couple of times, including staying at Kervaig bothy. Thats quite a place and worth a visit. You can see the mast that’s giving you stonking coverage on your zoom picture towards the lighthouse. Malcolm the boatman takes along 80l of diesel every couple of weeks with his quad and trailer to top up the tank and keep the hybrid generator running. Getting more batteries and solar added soon.

When I read your report early this morning was only 11km from the summit! XYL and myself had an overnight camp north of Sandwood bay. No SOTA this time…

Like you guys, want to head back soon!
73 Gavin
GM0GAV


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Go on, rub it in why don’t you…

Seriously, that’s a fantastic trip Andy and Andy!!

I was already convinced to go and your report reinforces it.

(To anyone other than named Andy, we three had plotted and planned a foray up there, but I had to withdraw due to a house move happening sooner than anticipated.)

Great to see Foinaven GM/NS-023 from the north too, that’s another itch to scratch…

Well done both and thanks for the QSOs! :clap: :clap:

A

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Thank you, Andy, for the s2s. Very much appreciated that you switched to ssb to replace Andy’s absence from HF.
Congratulations to you both on getting there and just squeezing it in before the weather broke. Superb pictures.
Sadly, I will not be seeking to gain a Complete for NS-139 even if the walk is not too challenging - these days it is hard enough getting to Inverness and the Black Isle from the S Wales borders.
73, Rod
PS - I was very pleased to meet you (and many others) at Blackpool.

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Well, that was a special one. :clap::sunglasses:

Did you bring any ‘souvenirs’ home? :bomb::boom::no_entry_sign:

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I’ll post the “special” pictures when I get out of A&E! Not serious just being careful.

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Thanks for that write up. Sounds and looks a great outing and quite interesting too.

Dave

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Why were you in A&E Andy? Daftness really. We’re having a kitchen extension built. Well Mrs. FMF asked for a new kitchen but I didn’t know we would need a new building to put it in. The shell is built and they start ripping the old kitchen apart next week. That means the old plasterboard ceiling is coming out. There is a loft above the kitchen full of stuff I have magpied away, guitar amps, LCD monitors (lo-res junk with VGA sockets), old HiFi (Mission speakers, Nytech Amp) and boxes of camping stuff and other yadd. I had to go up and using assorted bits of wood make sure that all the stuff was on wood across the joists and not resting on the plasterboard soon to disappear. Now the extension roof ties into the existing pitched roof so there was lots of building swarf that needs hovering out but can wait and the new roof was attached into the old roof with 19ft long nails. Well no, they just seem that long but there are lots of nails poking through because they use nail guns. There’s probably 25+ nails about 30mm sticking through.

Do you know how I found them? Yes, with my head. Oh the words were a whole new level of swearing, beyond military grade swearing. And there was blood, lots and lots of blood. However, I manfully laboured on and when everything was moved I came down for Mrs. FMF to be surprised at how I looked. Anyway we had a small bowl of dilute Dettol solution still from earlier and so she bathed my trouble brow (and baldy scalp) and said it didn’t look deep. But I know I’ve not had a Tetanus since before I moved up to GM 25 years ago and when young, 40 years ago, I’d have ignored this. But now I’d like to live long enough to spend the pension I’ve spent the last 40 years saving into so I got in the jalopy and went A&E. 5 mins to be triaged and 2hrs30 wait to be seen. Lovely lady doctor younger than my daughter had to open up the now closing wounds to check nothing embedded, all the questions about dizziness etc. after banging my head followed by a wait and then a Tetanus booster in my rear. Could have been worse.

Why did you have a bowl of dilute Dettol solution from earlier? Ah, that was to clean the site of the tick extraction. A wee hitch hiker from Am Parbh :frowning: I have a photo of the bite when it was removed with my tick extractor and I’ll watch this for the next week or so just in case.

So yes, fun all round. I now will go in search of Whisky, Gin & Brandy. (With a glass I’m pretty handy) as Mrs. FMF as moved it all out of the kitchen to somewhere.

Souvenirs? Now shall we say that mortar would make a good souvenir but neither of us wanted to see if it was a dummy or just failed to go bang. We left that! But I do have a 7.62x51mm cartridge case. We saw pieces of machined aluminium which were obviously body parts from missiles. I have a piece of shrapnel, weighs about 50g. It’s very weathered but I scratched and it’s shiny metal underneath. These are from Am Parbh. Also we did GM/NS-133 from the A9 and Andy bent over and picked up a 270 Winchester casing. That’s a fairly potent big game round. OK it wont stop an elephant but it will drop a big Red Deer in an instant. And it was by the side of the main road North… someone had been shooting at deer in between all the NC500 campers driving past :slight_smile:

Shrapnel + CR2032 cell for scale.

Top, NATO 7.62x51mm machine gun round marked L45A1, a tracer round.
Bottom, 270 Winchester round. (7mm)
2032 cell for scale.

You could easily fill your ruck sack with military souvenirs. There are several FV432 APC wrecks near Fashven/Maovally that are painted pink and full of holes made by 30mm DU rounds. There’s lots for the collector of trash there, just avoid the yet to explode stuff!

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What a super report and photos Andy. Not sure whether I should give Paul G4MD the heads up on this as it all went wrong for him back in 2015. He wrote this in January 2016 about it…

Having been up that far north to activate the Orkney summits, I would love to return to activate some of the mainland ones, but it is a long long way from down here. Add to that the fact that more than a decade has passed and age is starting to tell, I think it is most unlikely.

Unfortunately I was unable to chase you this time, but hopefully when you return to the far north, I will be around.

73, Gerald

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As Andy FMF said, I was quite chuffed to qualify the activation of GM/NS-139 on 2m but would have liked to do some HF. Alas the FT818 wasn’t playing on HF, having opened it up looking for dry joints and poor connections in the lab it is now refusing to fail. I’ll need to go up a hill next weekend and try it in the field.
Some of the logistics we could plan and some bits we were fortunate with, especially the weather.
As a pathfinder mission it was successful and I think we can build on it for a bigger trip.
The ground was a bit of a surprise and bears consideration for another visit.
We had never activated together before and I was interested to see how it would work.
Watching CW qso’s and using an EFHW with an atu were all new to me and quite fascinating.
One downside, going back to work on Friday was very dull in comparison !
Andy
MM7MOX

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Is that a path from Sandwood Bay up to the summit that I see in one of the pics?

We got engaged on the beach at Sandwood, and this looks like a very good reason to head back north.

73

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Cape Wrath Trail is what you need to investigate.

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Looks like the Cape Wrath Trail is under 8 miles from Sandwood to the lighthouse, then NS-139 is near the service road for the lighthouse. Those summits are an amusing amount of work for single point summits.

We might continue to concentrate on Munros for now.

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What an adventure!

A post script update on my FT818 HF problems.
It turned out to be two intermittent breaks in the sections of my link dipole antenna closest to the feed point balun.
They made contact when the antenna was down and I was probing with the DMM but opened up when hoisted and under tension.
I have replaced them and it is working fine now.
I made this antenna a couple of years ago and it has done about 150 activations so maybe I should have expected some wear and tear. I did replace a load of the croc clips before the Cape Wrath trip and checked the continuity then but of course it wasn’t under tension at the time.
I think I’ll make up a small backup antenna to carry as a spare, it will certainly make troubleshooting quicker in future.
Andy
MM7MOX

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