Two thumbs up. I used LCWO. I started the lessons at 15cpm/5wpm. I increased the spacing if I was having problems. When I finished the final lesson at 15/3 I started decreasing the character speed and the gaps. I’m now at 11/11 and working on increasing my speed back to 15/15.
I have a 20m QCX rig on order. Now I just need to figure out an enclosure… I might have to engineer a 3D print.
If you are struggling with morse try learning at 20wpm with a spacing of 10 once you learn the letters and numbers at that speed do the same at 18wpm with a spacing of 12, then 16wpm a spacing of 14. I kept doing this till reached 13wpm and I could write the letters neatly in a notepad and was able to read it.
Once you learn the letters at 20wpm and spacing of 10 it doesn’t take to long to work your way down through the process.
Maybe in a year or two you can help someone else thinking of operating with CW, as for the QCX rig go for it gives you an incentive and it has a little straight key.
I have the alphabet sorted pretty much at 5wpm with character at about 12-15wpm, using a cd on the way to work. I’ll try the 20wpm character with 5wpm spacing to start as that is still a little too fast sometimes.
Im definitely better than I was a few months ago. Keeping it up constantly is the trouble. I’ll be good diligent student for a month or two then it’ll slowly take a back burner then I go backwards a little and need to get back into it to get back to where I was and go a bit beyond. Then the cycle repeats.
Well I’ve jut placed my order for a 30m QCX rig. Lets see what serial number I get assigned and then we can take bets on how long it will take to come. I might have learnt CW enough to use it by the time it comes
I assembled my QCX 40m version few weeks ago and till now I made two SOTA activations with it.
Receiver is very good, … power supply of 15V gives 5W output (I use 3 USB powerbanks in series to get 15V=.
On one of the activations the outside temperature was under the zero, … so some latency on LCD was present.
QCX is small and has just 500 mA of consumption on TX.
So, the first impressions are very good.
The case is made from PCB , sprayed with two layers of paint, lettering is just printed on paper and fixed with Scotch tape. (I tried some of the ironing transfer methods, but that didn’t work well … the heat burns the paint, good for copper or aluminium, but not for painted surfaces)
I didn’t bother making a hole for the built-in key, since I intend to use an external key or paddle anyway.
I added an on/off switch to avoid pulling out the battery all the time, and also changed the power input to a round model as used on my KX3, so I can use the same packs as I am used to.
(both are mounted UNDER the QXC board)
The method that I’m currently using is vinyl stickers. The stickers are intended for model boats, you can by them in sheets in different colours and sizes. There are still drawbacks though, it’s difficult not to stretch the stickers as you remove them from the backing material.
Being my other passion I have a lot of experience with these. It is possible to get the (UK) manufacturer to produce a custom set of these vinyl stickers and doesn’t send you straight to the whisky bottle to recover.
The beauty of the app is that it reads books to you, one letter at a time, just as with Morse code. Then, when you are happy reading in that way, you start to replace letters with Morse code, one at a time. It took me about 6 months to replace all the letters, which cost about €60 altogether; not too steep if you ask me. It doesn’t matter whether you are a beginner or someone with years of experience, the sooner you try the app, the sooner you will be copying in your head. PM me if you want more advice on how to get started with it.
Whilst you are learning to read text you will need to keep up practice on the alphabet, for which I use Just Learn Morse Code:
I received shipping confirmation for my QCX-30 yesterday (7 March), I ordered it on February 18th.
I heard that the quality of the toroids shipped with the QCX kits is questionable, it’s recommended to use toroids of known origin. I already had some FT37-6 in stock, new stock of FT37-2 arrived from G3MFJ this week.
In the meantime, I ordered a Kits and Parts 1 Watter 40 on February 22nd and it arrived, from Florida, on February 27th! I’ve spent a few sessions putting the board together this week. Yesterday I got the board up and running.
Photo - before adding the PA transistor, the TX mixer filter is aligned.
Started building my QCX yesterday but didn’t spend a lot of time on it. I’ve almost run out of solder (I seem to get through quite a bit!), hopefully the post lady will bring me some more at the weekend.
It’s deceptive just how many caps and resistors have to be fitted to the board!
This was the board yesterday evening, today I installed all the resistors but didn’t take a pic.