MFJ-1899T Antenna (Update)

All,

One of the more subtle things not mentioned so far is multi-band operation, and fast band changes.

With the better small rigs, it’s possible to jump from band to band to catch S2S contacts that would otherwise be missed. Even with an auto-tuner, some antennas work a lot better than others on the more popular 40-30-20-17-15M bands.

Any simple coax-fed dipole will have mismatch problems and coax loss on some bands if fed with RG-174 or other small line. Using traps is one way to reduce the mismatch loss.

One of the big advantages of the end-fed wires is that because there’s no coax feeder, there’s no coax loss. The feed impedance depends on the main wire length, the counterpoise length (if used), and other factors, but good tuners can easily match these wires on all the 40-30-20-17-15M bands and more.

These days I often carry two different antenna systems on most activations.

  1. 66 feet of #24 silver-plated teflon wire with a link (jumper) at 52 feet. Usually I use no counterpoise with this. My support pole is about 18 feet high, so about 48 feet of wire remain to be run out to another support.

  2. 52 feet of the same wire, with links at 46 feet and 33 feet. Usually I use a 12-foot counterpoise with this. The support pole is 18 feet high, so about 34 feet of wire remain to run out to something. This more compact antenna helps when space is limited. I cannot detect any reduction in performance compared to the 66-foot wire.

I use a homebrew manual tuner with both systems, and I can easily tune 40 through 15 meters with either antenna.

Some of the matches are resonant high-Z matches, such as the 66-foot wire on 40, 20, an 15M. The 52-foot wire is resonant with the 12-foot counterpoise on 40 and 20M, but the impedances are moderate, requiring use of different taps on the tuner’s tank circuit. The 52-foot wire presents a high-Z match on 30M and 17M, so the counterpoise has little effect on those bands.

By opening a link, I can have other matches available if I like. One of the nice features of the end-fed-on-a-pole is that you can often just tilt the pole to lower the wire, so it’s easy to open or close a link. There is just one link to change, instead of two as on a dipole.

When activating high, alpine summits far above timberline - sometimes above 4000M - with strong gusty winds, the end fed is the only effective antenna that I am able to deploy. Wires blow in the wind, along with everything else, but many times a single wire can be strung in the direction of the wind, or opposite, to great advantage. Often a pole can be supported by rocks, or 2 or 3 simple guys, and the wire helps stabilize it. I have run these simple systems in winds so powerful that I feared the pole would gyrate to destruction - and well it might - but anything else would have been long gone!

It is almost magical to hear the flying wire singing with the gusts, and the pole humming loudly as it dances, and sit in a hole down in the rocks and work station after station as they call from all over!

With these systems I usually don’t have to get up to change bands, so looking for S2S activators is pretty fast. A perfect match is not needed to listen with these wires. Once you know where your matches are for each band, preparing to transmit just takes a few seconds. A good LED bridge in the tuner is the key.

73

George
KX0R

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I’m going to hook up my MFJ-1820T 20M whip, mounted on a hiking pole with one or two radials and see how many spots I get with 5W on FT8. I’ll post results when I get around to trying it.

Barry N1EU

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This is why I advocate using a W3EDP antenna, with mine I can operate on any of several bands without having to leave the operating position, and only need a short length of coax.

I have the MFJ-1699S model which is somewhat similar. Bandwidth is very restricted and it needs fine tuning. Works better with a counterpoise wire off my copper backpack frame but it can be tuned without it. Have only worked stations on 40 and 20m when propagation was good as well as 2m. Lightweight, I classify it as a mobile backup only. I prefer wire antennas even if it means carrying heavier.

Try Cabela’s for the pole, link below. I use the 16.5’ pole when I need lightweight and it works well. Considering the flex in the tip you get about 14 to 15 feet height depending on tension of the antenna wire. $12 + shipping - hard to beat.

http://www.cabelas.com/product/Cabelas-Classic-Crappie-Pole/738689.uts?slotId=0

I tried the MFJ-1820T on 20M FT8 with 5W and the resulting spots were few in number and way, way down from the dipole antenna. I guess this isn’t surprising. My conclusion is that the MFJ-1820T isn’t quite up to the task of a SOTA activation, even when using the FT8 weak signal mode. Perhaps if there were FT8 chasers specifically looking for me it would work.

Barry N1EU

In the top post, I was not impressed with the antenna; I was actually pretty disappointed with it. However, when I use it with my 817ND it does pretty well, even at 2.5 watts.

So it does have a use after all, just not with the KX1.

Hi,

Good to hear of some success. Conditions have been good the last week so that might need to be factored in.

I built a Dumtenna for very short range stuff, like in the back yard and just out of the AZ to work someone inside. It uses two 1.2 m telescopic whips and a 100 ohm resistor. and gives less than 2:1 SWR from 1.8 to 440 MHz. Screws into the SO239 socket on the back of the 817. Definitely inferior to the MFJ-1899 but no fiddle to change bands except for 2 m and 70 cm where the whips have to be 1/4 wave each. Best dx to date, 400m.

73
Ron
VK3AFW

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