Telescopic poles - what do you use?

Thanks for all the input, too many to reply to on the phone.

Yes appreciating all the help and advice.

In answer to your question, I’m pretty experienced in the hills. I regularly go out in all weather, and all seasons. I can rock climb, though only scrambled for some time now so grade would be down to a VD or HVD now probably leading. I have also free climbed some of the easier winter climbs on the north Face of Ben Nevis, and general winter walking in Scotland and other parky places. I have done a couple of 14,000ers in the states and been to the alps.

A few have suggested what I had in mind which was a larger pole with top sections taken out, to save weight and to have a stiffer mast.
I may get two just in case, smaller lighter one.

Guying is what I am used to, as said above, our 60 foot steel and scaffold mast was solely held up by guys. That said, strapping to fence posts and other options sounds good.
I like the idea of guying a smaller support first and using that too.

I always use trekking poles too, so have the option of utilising them.

Time for some shopping, and also antenna making. And get up on the hills!

I use a 3.3m telescopic fishing rod. It wasn’t expensive. It is light and compact when stowed. To support it I have a metal spike designed to hold fishing rods in a riverbank. I push the spike into the ground and sit the rod into the top of it. The tip of the rod holds the dipole feed point, and I use plastic clips on the fishing line guides to hold the feedline in place. The clips can also support the SOTA flag.

The ends of the dipole wires are terminated with a plastic shirt button as an insulator and a length of fluorescent surveyor’s string (with a fishing swivel to avoid tangling) and then tied to something (like a tree or a bush).

Hi Johnathan, Agreed, buy local when you can. Just wanted to mention that comments made to one apply also to the other as they are the same product. The DX-Wire one also comes with it’s own bag as do all fibreglass poles from DX-Wire ( Peter Bogner (DK1RP) ) having just bought three 10m and one 12.5m pole for the home QTH.
Ed.

Apart from the writing on it, that looks very much like my 6m pole. looking at ths picture:

The first symbol is don’t use in storms - what is the second one - don’t use when dogs around??

Ed.

“Susceptible to lightning”
“Susceptible to becoming a chew toy”

Also, can anyone recommend a North American source for these poles or similar?

Hi Steve

When using a wire antenna I use a 10m mini pole with a few sections removed from the top purchased from this place Fiberglas Teleskop Masten .
For some of my longer treks in the past I have used a small 5m pole fits inside the rucksack and the reduction in weight was noticeable. ( stood on the centre part and it snapped on a windy day)
Another option for lifting the antenna ends of the ground is bamboo canes only cost £3 for a pack, cut/trim them to what ever size you need. They become useful when you use one trekking pole to support the tarp and the other to support the mast.

Have a read over this topic Need advice for "rapid deployment antenna" - #20 by M0JLA

Good luck
Graeme

1 Like

HI all

The http://www.decathlon.co.uk/pole-600-id_8014342.html is a still fishing rod that doesn’t collapse.
The elements are conic. So, doesn’t colapse even on rough condx.

Also, it’s cheap !

Pedro, CT1DBS/CU3HF

That’s good question Steve that gets answered in 2 sections, one answer is the pragmatic “how to” answer and the other one is with my Management Team hat on.

It’s important to remember that what you and me and everyone else reading here finds attractive or interesting about antennas and radio may not be held by anybody else who happens across a SOTA activation in the countryside. That means being considerate with the size and scale of any antennas you rig and the length of time spent at a summit. There’s no hard rule saying how big or how long you can stay, use your common sense! This section of the rules is the important bit.

“Activators must operate with due consideration for other people and wildlife on the hills.
Excessive noise, inconsiderate siting of equipment and antennas, etc. is not acceptable and
potentially brings the Programme into disrepute.”

So if you find a summit with a wind shelter, seating and trig point and you set up a 10m high antenna complete with guying, then commandeer the seating with your station and extra gear and operate for 8 hours to the exclusion of all the other walkers who arrive at the summit, then you are not being considerate. These people they may not comment to the activator but they have contacted the MT in the past.

OK, with the heavy “use your common sense” bit out of the way, what about trigs and fences. Well if you visit a summit that really is seldom visited by anyone walkers or SOTA activators, then trigs are fair game. But if it’s popular you want to setup as far away from the other visitors as feasible (remember the WAB trig award distance and SOTA AZ rules).

Trigs can be used in 2 ways, either the centre hole is available or by lashing to the pillar itself. Many trigs have succumbed to have their centre cap stolen. (You need a BA set of Allen keys, WD40 and a special tool for loosening off the centre cap!) and if you are lucky the centre will not have been stuffed with stones or drinks cans and you can insert your antenna support. Use something to protect the pole from rubbing on the metal and damaging itself.

Lashing to the trig has problems. In England and Wales, the trigs are the classic Hotine Pyramid shape, a truncated pyramid. The problem is when you lean a pole against one side it doesn’t end up vertical. Not an issue if you hang a dipole or such from it for HF. Not really a problem for a vertical either. The bigger issue is trying to get the lashing tight as it tends to ride up the decreasing circumference as the pole moves in the wind. It can be done but is fidly. Paul G4MD (and others) made a trig point wedge that goes between the concrete and the pole to make the pole vertical and lashing work better as the ropes etc. don’t ride up. But it’s something extra to pack, carry and take up space. In Scotland we have a number of Vanessa Cyclinders which have constant circumference and so don’t have this problem.

I’ve been primarily and HF SOTA activator and fences are much more useful. Lashing to a fence post is easy (practice this wearing gloves) and having several runs of fence wire under a 60m/40m sloping V does improve the NVIS performance. If there is a fence I will use it no matter which when the dipole ends up pointing. If there’s no fence and I guy the support, I try to aim the main lobe of the dipole East of South. A low 60m/40m inverted-V is quite omnidirectional TBH, but the 30m option is noticeably directional.

So yes you can use what you find at the summit to support antennas but don’t use them if you will interfere with other visitors enjoyment. Whenever I have been using the trig and others have arrived at the summit I have offered to stop operating or move. Nobody has ever asked me to do so but I always give them chance to comment.

8 Likes

I think the second symbol is trying to depict an electric transmission line tower. Don’t use near electric lines.

wunder

1 Like

[quote=“K6WRU, post:39, topic:11168”]Don’t use near electric lines.[/quote]Most likely that’d be a carbon-fibre pole, then…

It would be after the event :wink:

3 Likes

Hi

I invariably use a 7m pole now - ideal balance between height and weight! I use guying as a last resort - bungeeing to a fence or other handy structure takes only seconds and is available on many summits. In winter snow drifts make an excellent support - 600mm penetration is generally enough. But whatever way you do it, remember to pull out the first section of pole before fixing to avoid cursing followed by rapid dismantling :rage:

One tip that I’ve not seen elsewhere - I cut the thin top section off to leave a stub about 25mm long protruding from the next section down which I fix with a spot of glue. This leaves a handy ridge that stops the cable tie I use to attach the dipole centre to the top of the pole slipping down :smile:

Have fun on the hills

73 de Paul G4MD

2 Likes

nothing worse than getting the squidy nicely fixed to the fence post then the top section falls down inside and you can’t reach it. I put some grey tape around the top inch or so then a small zip tie around that and it can’t fall all the way back in, you can reach it plus put the top cap back on when you pack up. My pole was 9m long but I don’t use the top section it was too thin so it is now a 8m pole and a grey plastic wall plug fits nicely in the top with a short string down the middle of the plug where you would normally place a screw or nail if it was used as intended. Of course the string with wall plug on the end is fixed to all my antennas I use with that pole, never had it let go yet in at least 60 summits.
keep the bright ideas flowing
ian vk5cz …

1 Like

Some nice experience based tips emerging, thanks. Keep em coming

Agreed on that one :smiley:

And thanks to Mike 2E0YYY for the fibre glass telescopic pole link :smile:
I ordered my 8m pole today.
Good price and no postage :yum:

Plus have to add, ordered me yellow wire from Sota beam today Then noticed the order was for green one, so quickly messaged them via there messenger thingy on there web page. Quickly resolved to yellow wire i wanted in first place, hows that for service
Thanks Richard of Sota beams :wink:

73s karl

1 Like

I’ve also ordered an 8m pole from that link to get going on.

For anyone trying to source the 3m/4m/5m poles that are ideal for travelling (they’re only 60cm long when collapsed) I ordered one a couple of days ago and it came yesterday. Was well packaged and will be great for anybody who is due to travel abroad etc!

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/191256960725?_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2648&var=490385653284&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

I also picked up one of these. Its about 50cm long and made from aluminium, if you head to a peat based SOTA summit like the Brecon Beacons or some in Mid Wales, they’re dead easy to use! These are pretty light weight (but tough) and get rid of the need for guys. All you do is auger it into the soil, take off the end cap of your fishing pole and simply slip the whole pole over.

I have this smaller 50cm version now and I have one that is 1m long for the 7m/9m poles. The 1m one came from a radio rally, from the Pro Whip seller, so I am not sure of their availability now.

The auger should be good in most soils, having used my 1m one on over 220 activations across G, GW and GD.

Hope that is some help to some people, ditch the guys! They’re such a nuisance!!

Having said that I did put an inverted V for HF with the two legs acting as two guys and a back guy taking the relief, this was a doddle. For VHF though, these are so quick, especially when used with a simple J-Pole antenna

Matt G8XYJ

Nice one Matt, looks useful, thanks.

8m Fibre glass poles :kissing:

he he turn it into a 1/4 wave 40m vert in progress :open_mouth:

Karl

The poles that pack down small like these travel poles are a godsend. Mine came from an eBay seller recommended by Carolyn G6WRW 3 or 4 years back and it’s been to CT3, F, ON, LX, PA & OE now. It’s good to see another source recommended Matt as the original one has long since gone.

How much does the small ground spike weigh, I didn’t see anything in the ad?

2 Likes