We started our normal-route tour last Saturday from Lucknerhaus (Parking place near Kals am Großglockner, East tyrol) at 1950 m and made our way up to Stüdlhütte, 2801m. Here we stayed overnight and the next day met our mountainguide Martin with whom we hiked up to Erzherzog Johann Hütte (also known as Adlersruh - Eagles rest) at 3454m. That is the highest mountain hut in Austria. This step-by-step increase in altitude helped a lot and non of us had any signs of altitude sickness.
Monday, 25th of June, early morning we started our climb for the summit. Summit WX forecast was -7 °C and wind with 30-60 km/h.
20 cm of snow fall and right in the clouds everything was white in white. Wearing warm cloth, gloves, helmet and most important type C or D shoes with crampons we went up a ~ 45° steep snow covered flank named Glocknerleitl to reach the rock and ice covered ridge. This we followed to the pre-summit Kleinglockner and balanced over the Glocknerscharte to finally climb up to Großglockner. The northern side of Glocknerscharte is also known as Pallavicinirinne - also an alpine classique route.
The ridge route is prepared with steel rods to belay and secure groups esp. for guides. This made navigation and especially the safe way down doable. About half way thru the activation with my FT1XDE wind speeds increased. On the way down it was painful on skin an eyes. Sunglasses were blocked instantly. But we carefully made it down without bigger troubles.
But see for yourself:
Big thanks go to my friends in OE5 that made a quick activation possible! @OE5AUL Peter @OE5YYN Sylvia @OE5REO Martin @OE5JKL Karl @OE5FSM Franz
It feels great being part of such a caring community!
My appologies to everyone that could not chase me.
Gerhard @OE5PGM made a video chasing me. Unluckily too many summits inbetween for a direct contact I guess. I’m so sorry Gerhard. Thank you to sharing your experience and recording my QSO with Peter and Sylvia.
Martins (OE5REO) video is part of my video already.
Big thanks also go to my fellow mountaineers Sabine and Daniel. It’s was great fun and thanks for taking so many great pictures.
Although that I am one of about 5000 mountaineers each year that make it to the summit I feel very gratefull and blessed that this adventure worked out so well.
Without the experienced mountainguide it would not have been possible at all. That would be also my recommendation if you want to activate this summit yourself. Of course conditions are very much changing. Easier conditions are in July and August but also more people up there. Here the link to their English mountainguide website.
I will add that we did not have money for the guide and for refuge.
our trip lasted 11 hours. On the next day we just lay there! in the summer there is a dangerously many tourists |690x458
That sounds like an even bigger adventure.
Respect and well deserved first activation back then
That’s what we have learnt too. July and August are the main season. Stüdlhütte was already well visited. Adlerruh hut was only about 20% occupied.
The guide was of course some expense that is true. Prices can be found at the homepage. For us as well trained hikers the extra experience needed for such a mountain was very much needed under these conditions.
Hiking and mountaineering are two different level
Oh no another mistake. Anyway I will not reupload it because it will mess up all the links …
It’s of course 25. June and not May in the intro animation …
Thanks for spotting it!
For everyone that had no luck with getting myself in the log you will have another chance this year for OE/KT-001.
Gerhard OE1WED has alerted for 8th of August.
I will try to get a S2S with him of course.
All the best and hopefully the WX will be fine
EDIT (2018-08-07): Edit to bumpt this topic on top of the list. Tomorrow 8th of August you have the chance to bring Gerhard OE1WED/8 in your log from Austrias highest summit. 2m FM and 2m CW is announced.
Will update here if I have more infos. Sylvia OE5YYN, Peter OE5AUL, Gerhard OE6PGM and myself will try to chase.
Just got news from Gerhard OE1WED.
He plans to be at the summit, 8th of August, 08:00 Localtime (+/- 30 min) starting with FM QRG 145.500 / 145.525 / 145.550 MHz.
Plan is to call about 30-45min before from the Kleinglockner (no SOTA summit) to give info on the activation time.
Will keep you updated.
Well done! My brother and I got as far as the Kleinglockner in 1983. I was amazed that the Pastertze glacier has all melted!!! We crossed it in crampons in 1983! 73! Hal N6JZT