Andy, @MM0FMF, pointed me to your plan that you’re soon going to activate F/AB-001.
I just skimmed over this thread and saw that already a lot of good recommendations have been given by others, so it seems that I cannot add too much from my side.
But you can find my short activation report from my last years visit of F/AB-001 here on the reflector. It is just a short recap of my impressions during that activation, including a couple of pictures. Maybe it will be of interest to you:
Concerning the ascent, I’d put an alternative approach up for consideration. Since the most critical section, as others have already pointed out, is climbing up the Grand Couloir, a lot of rockfall can generally be avoided by climbing up during the nighttime. Since during nighttime temperature is dropping and therefore the thawing of the permafrost is reduced. Also, at nighttime much fewer people are on the way who potentially could cause rockfalls.
Of course, at the other side, you need to have enough experience in climbing in darkness and you should have somebody with you who knows the route very well.
It is very hard to give general recommendations, because it depends on so many factors, like someones fitness and experience and not to forget the weather which can finally completely upset someone’s plans.
I wish you good luck for your activation and, most important, a save return from the summit!
73, Stephan DM1LE