5MHz on FT817

In reply to G6WRW:

Thanks Carolyn, thats nice and clear.

Dave.

Thanks everybody for you comments. Though quite happy to open the case and carry out the mods, if this results in an invalid warranty, then that might be a problem.

My FT817 is new - I brought it as a present for myself at Christmas. I had let my licence lapse for years, but SOTA is tempting me back. I must say I have really enjoyed operating from three local hills over the new year. These were on 2M SSB, but i would like to try HF as well.

Thanks

Richard
G0IBE

In reply to G0IBE:

Hi Richard

Another point, if you opt to have the mod done at ML&S or W&S etc, your guarantee stays intact. For the sake of £25, it’s a point worth considering.

I had my 817 modded for free when I bought it new, I did the surgery to my second hand 857 myself and as others have stated, it’s a simple job but requires good eyes or a magnifying glass and a steady hand.

73
Mike GW0DSP

In reply to GW0DSP:

My NoV has been issued (only 5 days to turn it around, very efficient) and the 817 has just been duly modded.

The process is straightforward using the instructions provided by Carolyn, above. I would Like to add three points:

1: If the case has never been opened before, the screws can be quite tight. The metal is soft, and the heads strip easily (unfortunately, I found this out the hard way). I would suggest using a good quality, large handled, Phillips No. 1. Apply a nice steady downward force during the first “turn”. Do not be forceful while replacing the screws during reassembly.

  1. I found that using a snippet of desoldering braid held in the end of a pair of surgical forceps is a good way to remove the link on J4005.

  2. In case you have never met one before, the brown part of the connector holding the ribbon cable to the main board hinges upward to release the cable. Do the reverse during reassembly.

Anyway, thats three things I would like to have known before I did mine, perhaps it will help someone else. All that remains now it to put an extra pair of links into the dipole and I’ll be QRV on 60m.

73,

Dave MW0MYA.

In reply to M0MYA:

It’s not a well known fact but Japanese “Philips” screws are neither Philips nor Pozidrive. In fact they are a specific Japanese pattern. For the best results (i.e. you don’t want to manchester the heads on the screws) you need a JIS (Japanese Industrial Standard) screwdriver. You can get these from toolshops and RC model shops.

Yes Pozi and Philips screwdrivers work. JIS screwdrivers fit perfectly and leave no sign that Prof. Gammyhands has been at work ! :wink:

Hope to catch you on 5MHz soon.

Andy
MM0FMF

1 Like

In reply to MM0FMF:
Useful info, Andy - thanks!

I hope to catch you on 5, too, Dave.

73

Brian G8ADD